04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install

04 Summit Rebuild w/ T Motion install, w/ many mods come check it out.

Hello everyone, I have been rebuilding my sled for this season, not a huge amount of mods cause sled already has slot of mods, my signature is only the most of them has alot more,

Along with newest I have been working on this summer is I have been changing over to a new chassis I purchased another Summit bulkhead and tunnel that I have installed an MXZ X front reinforced Nun and bulkhead already had a VE Drop and Roll Chaincase kit installed 1 1/4down and 1 3/4 back (or visa versa can`t really remember) lol, and the VE aluminum below chaincase belly pan protector ,VE Drop Brackets and stock appearing VE tunnel ext and rear bumper, the Extension will be removed and the Home made custom one will be installed from my other chassis I will be swapping the Snow Eliminators also, have also installed 06 all Black Summit X seat, and have traded the side panels and front bumper for 07 XRS panels and bumper.

I have also fabricated and narrowed my stock A Arms to 36inch or since I didn`t relocate the lower shock mount so it stood the shocks up taller angle and actually raised the sled higher giveing me a 35.5 ski stance I have installed Black Gen 1 Simmons skis for this year.

Mod I am excited about the most is the T Motion kit I have ordered that is expected to get here mid December, I planned on installing the kit in my Rev rails since I did a bunch of measurements of an XM summit with the T Motion that is on the dealers floor, I have done an extentfull amount of research on the shocks and there measurement from the Rev to XP and have found after every ebay xp or rev summit shock listing I could find that they are all the same except 2010 did suggest a shock upgrade to longer front shock on the xp but haven`t got the correct measurement for those yet, this made it possible for me to use my Rev rails and shocks w/ the T Motion, and since then it came down to the front arm measurement to see about where I would have to relocate the font arm mount I measured a T Motion kit that was on display at the Spokane sno show and seen the front arm is 17 1/4 inchs long and the arm on the Rev is actually longer, if you know how the front arm is built on an 04 or newer Rev summit you`ll know that skidoo added an extension go where the front arm cross shaft would be to extend it about 1 1/4 inch farther forward kind of a geometry change thing not sure thats just how it is the bolt goes thru the tunnel and front arm bushing and has a washer an nut on the other side, where othere front arms like a 550 fan summit has a normal lookin cross shaft and those arms measure 17inchs, like the one I purchased for my wifes 97 summit from a Rev 550 fan sled 136 skid.
the arms ctc measurement on a T Motion is 30inch and the distance on the rails lower front arm location square back to the bottom scissor mount at the rails is 22 1/2, I could now put the T Motion in the rev rails, except I found a great deal on a pair of 154 XP rails on ebay for $80 shipped so the kit will go in those rails but I`m still gonna mount it in the Rev rails and post my detailed install for anyone who want to do it..

sorry about the long read but lastly i am installing these 154 rails with a T Motion kit with the stock XM 8inch rear wheels in and mounting skid back to fit the 159 track I have in it now. eventually I will get rails extensions for when I put a 163x16x2.5 xp track in it and will break the outer fiber rods to try to simulate the flexedge track.

Will post pics of my current progress in the next few days, and the T Motion install when I receive it !!

Here is pic of the sled before I started to tear it down to swap chassis`s ( stock chassis had a bent up front nun and bulkhead that someone had tried to straighten but did a hash job and was twisted pretty good and I didn`t like it the way it was of course.


New chassis


D&R pics LH side


This is what the sled looked like the day after I brought it home yrs ago for $3200 Had 700mi on new top end just a touch over 3kmiles was 144 track , other than earlier that mornin I put the 6.9 Pilot skis on it, rather than the stock yellow ones



Wildcard

Sounds cool,I now know who to ask for measurements when modding Revs. Cudos for makeing/modifying your own parts.
Must of been kinda funny when you were all "Colombo" on that XM in the dealership!
How much for a T Motion kit,what's the part number,what do you get in the kit?
Cheers!

zilla said:

Sounds cool,I now know who to ask for measurements when modding Revs. Cudos for makeing/modifying your own parts.
Must of been kinda funny when you were all "Colombo" on that XM in the dealership!
How much for a T Motion kit,what's the part number,what do you get in the kit?
Cheers!

Click to expand...

Thanks Zilla, I like makin my own stuff alot dis people over but why buy sometimes when you can make.

Ya from the first time I seen an advertisement or video on the XM sled and the T Motion I had to have one of those, I can`t afford the sled but the T Motion kit is really a great deal and price. I got mine for $320 at my dealer and thats about what they go for 320 - 350 depending on where you get it.
Of what I have seen in pics other than the BRP catalog it seems to come with all the components that make up the assembly other than the Rails, shocks and I beleive it doesn`t come with springs, and I don`t think it comes with the plastic rail tip covers and the rubber bumpers in the rails. cause the kit is offered to update an xp skid which most who are buying the kit already have an xp ya know, I do seen in the pics it comes with the front arm, rear scissor assembley rear axle and wheels, center wheels and components to mount them and the upper wheels, hard to expain or list all but it comes with enough to upgrade and xp if you already own one, but I was originally gonna put the kit in my rev rails and will still do that I just happen to get a great deal on some xp rails, but if when I mak it up in the rev rails the plastic pieces , bumpers, springs etc I`m sure will work on the kit, I`m gonna use the spring from my Rev on the T Motion anyway. along with other assecories I can use, might have to order a few pieces maybe but will see when the kit arrives, estimated time is Dec, 20th.

Ya the sales man and Floor Manager at the dealer was chucklin at me as I was layin on the floor around that XM with my own small measureing tape get my info and measurements off it they actuall really didn`t care what I was doing I know everyone there pretty well and the Floor Manager has been a long time friend of mine since High School, and I order alot of parts from them I can pretty much order anything I want and pay for it when It comes in when most places ask for a % deposit...

man pulling that sled over on the Floor is way easy but to be Honest, after I was playin with layin it over and pullin and leaning on it, I come home and do the same on my sled they way its modded now and it is Easier, yes easier. so on that Note I excited to see how better it is gonna be with the T Motion installled along with after I break track rods that suposed to simulate the Flexedge track, Will see but I know its gonna be Awesome, Its amazing what the narrower front end on a Rev does, mine is 35.5 the way it is with Simmons Skis that actually gives it a wider ballance point than the ski stanc cause of the outer carbides, like when my sled was stock stance it was 39inc with Pilot skis set to the inside position so the balance point on the ground it around 37 so take an XM or 2012 XP with the 36inch front end and skis set to the inside position with center carbide skis you have a pivot point of under 35inch,

Not sure the part number is off hand. Here is the best pic I could round up of the Kit and its Components I finally got my photobucket workin took forever but had to request switch back to previous version.


Rear scissor assembly


front and rear arm Assembly


I`m going to powdercoat my xp rails to the closest color I can find of the T Motion Rails and hopefully find the sticker on the rear of the rails saying T Motion..
like this skid!!!


Wildcard

More pics of the new chassis and the mods done to it, very clean and straight chassis nice to not have all the grime a crap build up under the engine like the old chassis.

RH side drop and roll kit


cleaned up chassis just before I installed teh 06` MXZ X racin reinforced front Nun.


Front Nun installed, I bolted it in to the front plate fo the Bulkhead with stong grade bolts and washers that are pretty tight polylocks rather than rivet, so If I have to change or repair again I don`t have to keep drillin the holes biger and biger ya know.


Front Suspension getting installed, I narrowed the arms to a final ski stance to 35.5


Chaincase, Jackshaft and drive shaft Installed, geared 19/47 Aluminum bottom gear I really don`t like the aluminum gear will be changin it back to steel. I beleive the D&R is 1 1/4 down and 1 3/4 back.


Enjoy, Wildcard

Thanks for posting, Great job!!

Nice.. Yea use bolts some when rebuilding Nuns, have worked on Revs some and might soon dip into one myself.I do have a 2010 146 xp complete rear susp. to tinker with unless I sell it.Friend of mine did a CMX belt drive on a MXZ chassis with Fabcraft trailing arms and Rear susp. 146,nice efficient pocket sled.
Cheers!

Ya Zilla, I would love to be able to install a Belt Drive on this sled, more weight loss, no more adding oil, etc..

Thanks, Sledrocks.

Wildcard

WOW! what a build! Really interested in how this all folds out and to see how much work would go into doing this mod! For $320 or whatever the price is for sure, that seems to me like it would make it a completely different sled. Like I said, if the change over is somewhat simple, this could be huge for rev owners.

Thanks again for posting!

Nice mods

Would you please share some more info on the a arm
Mods
I have a 07 rev and I just picked up 09 xp
I was considering narrowing up the stance
My self.
If you have to buy the shorter shocks is it cheaper to buy the kit
From skidoo or can you make do with the stock ones?
Thanks

Hello, Ezeekel

What info would you like, on the rev you can narrow the a arms fairly easy, I took 1 1/2inchs out of each arm you can take that out of the front side of them the rear of the arm takes a bit more figuring cause of the angle back part of the arm the front side is pretty much a straight shot out from the mounting bolt to the wrap around of the ball joint and the rear you don`t take as much out and you have to figure you have to cut or slice the rear part right after the bend to the staight part of the arm and bent it out to angle match with the rear again and weld it kinda tricky but I built a Jig that I could put each front arm on and then change brackets and mount each lower arm on then after the sled you get the arms rebolted back up align up the skis and then measure and shorten the tierods this is pretty easy cause you can cut them and rethread them cause they are hollow.

I like mentioned took 1 1/2inchs out of each side trying to narrow from 39 to 36 inch front end but without relocating the lower shock mount it actually make the arms set at more of a down angle and the shocks straigher up and it set the sled at a final 35.5 ski stance If I was to do it again I would only take 1inch out of each side the shock would go in easier, with the sled jacked up under the bulkhead and installing the shocks I have to install them upside down and then pry them up a bit to get the bottom bolt in but after you put the sled back down on its feet it settles the suspension and everything works great, lays over way better even with outer carbide Simmons Gen1 skis, this worked out of me but If I would of had the money for Alternative Impact 37inch arms I would go that route!!! I had a set of there arms that were the stock 39inch stance and Man those babies were light and workmanship is great. just wanted to feel what the sled would be like before I dropped the coin agian on the narrow arms.

After the T Motion is installed my next Mod will be AI 37arms.

With the XP you have you can purchase the 36inch stance from skidoo pretty reasonable, or buy a set of Narrow stance light weight Alternative Impact arms, which is what I would do, The Factory kit Is more reasonable on price and comes with everything, but sure about shocks tho.

Here a pic or 2 when the AI stock stance arms were on



Wildcard

Got some more progress pic, Here are some pics of the Rear Drop Bractets and the Rear of the Tunnel and extension with bumper that was on the chassis when I bought it, this chassis is an 03.5 chassis and had holes drilled in the tunnel for the skid relocate of the drop and Roll, but I beleive that was for the original skid , My skid is an 04 and they have a longer front arm cause skidoo welded an extension piece on the front of these arms makeing them longer so I couldn`t use the holes that were already in the tunnel, I had to go 1 1/4 farther forward crappy part was is the same spot I needed to drill this hole the reinforcement bracket inside the tunnel that wraps under the running boards has a rib kinda crease that is for strenth right where I needed the hole so I had to go another 3/4 inch farther forward to get it to go, didn`t seem to hurt the attack angle any but I can always drill the hole farther up to help. and have plenty of holes to choose from on the rear , but when the T Motion kit comes In I`m going to obviously have to relocate my rear drop bracket farther forward and can most likely use the holes that were already in the tunnel cause the T Motion front arm is shorter, (17 1/4).



VE Drop Brackets


Rear of tunnel 151 Cooler, and supposed to be a 159 Extension and Bumper but I beleive its shorter than that, Looks like 151 length
04 Summit X 144 Skid w/ Tracks Usa 144-159 Extension, Homemade 2whl axle


Of couse the track isn`t adjusted up in the above pic

To anyone interested the Tracks Usa Rail extension that are 144-159 or 7.5inch long that also work for many other length extension will be for sale as soon as I get the T Motion installed, they are the same extension on a 121-136, 136-151, 144-159.

Wildcard

Also after changin a few coolant hose and a touch more clean up on the engine with a few extra cans of Brake and Carb Cleaner, set the motor down in and started hooking things up. should of taken the Y pipe off and cleaned it up and painted but will do that later, I already have installed those special 2 piece washers on the Ypipe bolts to keep them from backin out last year, they work great. You all like the shock mock up Jig, worked good till I got the triangular chassis supports installed especially the front one then I could install the shocks.


Here I started assembling the triangular chassis support pieces, ( funny how the new Polaris Pro looks like a replica in way to this design, No bashing please just my opinion. Tryin all I can not to get coolant or gas etc under the engine again trying to keep it as clean as possible, I drilled a few drain holes and put some plugs in to help thing drain better.


Enjoy, Wildcard

Ok
Did you sleeve the inside of the arms
Or butt welded the new joint?
Does the front of the sled sit higher than before you shortened
Them?
Do you have the same amount of travel for the shock?
Any pictures of the jig or close ups of the arms?
Thanks

Hello Ezeele, Now I didn`t sleeve the in or outside of the arms, I but welded them, the tubing of the original arms are about 1/8inch thick and I ground taper half way thru the thickness of the tubing to the end of each tube I welded together, plenty strong really

Yes it did raise the heigth of the sled not a bunch but I like how it sets higher more clearance and didn`t seem to effect how the skid set on the ground, I was always told that if you lift the back of the sled and have someone watch from the side to see how the skid lifts off the ground as you lift the sled by the rear bumper if the skid lifts equal that good but rather the rear of the skid lift first an inch or two before the front of the skid comes off the ground, and this is still what the sled does after the higher front end, has always worked good for me for initial skid placement then adjust limiter to the transfer in the rear skid of your choice.

Shocks have the same travel as they did stock even tho the sled set higher my biggest concern to this was if the tierods would swing down to much and hit something and try to stop the steering when the front suspension is at full sag, last thing you want is if you jump or wheelie and the steering locks up cause the suspension is at full sag, but it doesn`t do this at all lots of room under the tierods to the boots.

will try to get a close up pic of where the weld are and where I sliced and re angled the back of the arms, I cut the arms 2 inchs out on the arms where the bushings and bolt go thru, you didn`t even the grind the weld down, I know how to weld so there isn`t a glob there, lol after installed on the sled you can`t even see where its been welded looks all stock.

Sorry no pics of the Jig yet.

here is a view of narrowed arms


Don`t have a pic yet of straight from the front view to see the actual wideth of the stance but will post one later but in this one if you campare from stock you Can notice the difference.


Wildcard

Thanks wildcard for the info
I think I got it
You cut the arms at the mount and 1 1/2" back from there
Before cutting jig the ends on a flat pattern layout
To keep the geometry the same as the sled
V grind end of tubes and reweld

Ya, pretty much. takes some thinkin figureing but If you really decide you want to do it and are fabrication experienced, take some starting measurements of the arms before you start figure about that the final measuerments are going to be and cut ( not to much at first you can alway cut or grind some off rather than accidently going to short), happened to me only ended up being a small gap at a weld point but filled it with welding skill and worked out great.

The biggest reason why I wouldn`t take the whole 1 1/2ichs off is after you install the shocks, upside down you`ll notice the thread sticking thru the back nut of the upper balljoint will hit the shock spring so I cut about half the nut with the thread stickin thru with a jig say to clear the spring better but you still have to twist the spring in a certain spot of the rotation so it doesn`t still rub the shortened nut, so if you shorten up the amount you take out of the arms you won`t have as much of this clearance issue, you see what I mean when you put it back together with the shortened arms, not a big issue tho.

Good Luck, Wildcard

more assembly pics, here are ones of the triangular frame supports all installed, steering post put in, seat installed, and the nose cone and inner nose support brace, all the front suspension and shocks ,tierods and all tighened up.



Wildcard

Where do you get those two piece washers, that you were talking about for the exhaust manifold?

SNOW 365 said:

Where do you get those two piece washers, that you were talking about for the exhaust manifold?

Click to expand...

They are called nordlock washers but dont know where you can get them.

I got Nordlocks from Fastenal