If you want your PRO RMK to work smoothly, function reliably.. and not cost you big money to replace parts that wore out prematurely... Grease the sled and do it often..
Greasing also pushes out old worn out grease, moisture and debris caused by wear.
DO NOT use normal axle greases... especially not the blue " Waterproof Boat Trailer grease".. that stuff gets way to thick at lower temps that typical mountain sleds see.... this will cause the suspension to perform poorly.
The stock suspension on the PRO RMK is great, but it does NOT have any bushings in it...so normal use moves the grease around in the suspension and you have direct steel-on-aluminum contact... frequent greasing will keep the sled working smoothly and keep it from wearing out too soon.
You would not believe the difference in the "seat of the pants feel" of the sled between a poorly lubed one and one that is lubed and set up properly. HUGE!!
Sure it will "work" if you neglect it... but it won't work well/smoothly... Proper transfer and bump absorption of the suspension relies on the suspension moving freely with no "tight" spots.
Get a good DEDICATED grease gun and keep only high quality, synthetic grease in there for this purpose... a Pistol grip, rather than a pump-arm type of gun works better (pneumatic or cordless is best/easiest)... with a long hose and a quality grease gun chuck at the end work best... the pistol grip allows you to hold the hose end on the fitting with one hand and pump the grease with the other.
I use RedLine CV-2 EXCLUSIVELY on my sleds for grease...It is priced well, you can get it from NAPA, Summit Racing, or other Redline dealers.
Other acceptable grease is Mobile 1 synthetic and the low temp greases that the sled mfgs offer specifically for these applications.
Grease the suspension often...every few rides... if you want the sled to work well.
End of the season or 1500 miles, whichever comes first... pull the rear suspension out of the sled... remove all of the cross shafts, clean out the bores of the tubes in the suspension arms... check the shafts for wear, replace if necessary and re-grease using this grease.
YES... PULL IT OUT OF THE SLED... It's easier than you think!
This is definitely worth the effort!
In addition, pull the ski off... grease the sleeve-bushing and bolt into the spindle. Some people even put in a grease fitting on the spindle.Often... it gets corroded, and you have to "jackhammer" the bolt out to remove the ski.
Other points are the drive shaft bearing on the PTO side, I like to grease the A-arm pivots too to keep it smooth and low-wear.
On the pro.. to keep the sled working well... pull the steering post and drag link bushings... lube them with the CV-2 (or similar) and you will see smoother steering action... especially when you have to use a lot of effort.
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Greasing also pushes out old worn out grease, moisture and debris caused by wear.
DO NOT use normal axle greases... especially not the blue " Waterproof Boat Trailer grease".. that stuff gets way to thick at lower temps that typical mountain sleds see.... this will cause the suspension to perform poorly.
The stock suspension on the PRO RMK is great, but it does NOT have any bushings in it...so normal use moves the grease around in the suspension and you have direct steel-on-aluminum contact... frequent greasing will keep the sled working smoothly and keep it from wearing out too soon.
You would not believe the difference in the "seat of the pants feel" of the sled between a poorly lubed one and one that is lubed and set up properly. HUGE!!
Sure it will "work" if you neglect it... but it won't work well/smoothly... Proper transfer and bump absorption of the suspension relies on the suspension moving freely with no "tight" spots.
Get a good DEDICATED grease gun and keep only high quality, synthetic grease in there for this purpose... a Pistol grip, rather than a pump-arm type of gun works better (pneumatic or cordless is best/easiest)... with a long hose and a quality grease gun chuck at the end work best... the pistol grip allows you to hold the hose end on the fitting with one hand and pump the grease with the other.
I use RedLine CV-2 EXCLUSIVELY on my sleds for grease...It is priced well, you can get it from NAPA, Summit Racing, or other Redline dealers.
Other acceptable grease is Mobile 1 synthetic and the low temp greases that the sled mfgs offer specifically for these applications.
Grease the suspension often...every few rides... if you want the sled to work well.
End of the season or 1500 miles, whichever comes first... pull the rear suspension out of the sled... remove all of the cross shafts, clean out the bores of the tubes in the suspension arms... check the shafts for wear, replace if necessary and re-grease using this grease.
YES... PULL IT OUT OF THE SLED... It's easier than you think!
This is definitely worth the effort!
In addition, pull the ski off... grease the sleeve-bushing and bolt into the spindle. Some people even put in a grease fitting on the spindle.Often... it gets corroded, and you have to "jackhammer" the bolt out to remove the ski.
Other points are the drive shaft bearing on the PTO side, I like to grease the A-arm pivots too to keep it smooth and low-wear.
On the pro.. to keep the sled working well... pull the steering post and drag link bushings... lube them with the CV-2 (or similar) and you will see smoother steering action... especially when you have to use a lot of effort.
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