TPS.....more things to check on your new Pro....

Ok guys, I dont know how maany of you went thru the dragon 8 debacle..but for those of you who didnt have any or much experience with it...TPS settings are very important on the poo injection..the factory uses digital wrench (their version of onboard diaagnostics)..while it works pretty good for most things..it sucks for setting the tps acurately....so..with that said..anyone who has a injected polaris..setting/checking the tps settings will make a big difference in how your sled runs performs and even on how often you have to change sparkplugs...since digital wrench isn't very acurite..I use a high quality fluke 88 multimeter and a handmade tps checker(nothing more then a nifty little tool to put 5.0 volts to the tps so you can set it...dont use a crappy/cheapo meter..it will give the same results as DW will...so first to gain access, pull side panels and hood...then remove the belt and secondary clutch, then there are 4 nuts holding the clutchgard in..(yes the oil tank and electrical stuff is mounted to it)just remove the 4 nuts and raise the guard up about 4" in the rear, 2" in frt..there is a wire tie that needs cut off holding the tps harness tight to the tps ..now..here is the tough part..you need to check tps supply voltage to the tps(it should be 5.0 volts..I I use a small fluke terminal probe for checking this(its the furthest forward wire when the tps is plugged in)fire the sled up and check voltage on this wire(everything electrical plugged in of course(incuding hood connector)..after verifying its at 5.0 v. disconnect the connector from the tps and hook up your meter and tps checker...(follow the instructions in the thread below)mine was at .930 volts for idle setting and baseline setting was at .740..now as of right now I am unsure of baseline setting for the new cfi 2 800 motor..the online dealer manual gives me idle setting of .930 but no base setting( a good friend is trying to confirm the number for base setting)..I set mine to .710..which is what I found to work good on all the cfi-4's I have done in the past..may have to change this though based on what my friend comes up with....once done..and put back togeather..I took the sled for a few spins around the yard..feels like my burble is gone, sled starts 1 good pull cold, reverse pops right in and out...sled feels crisper and looks like it picked up 100 rpm on top..the tps tells the computer how open/closed the throttle is and is critical to fuel supply....
thread link for building tps checker/ and how to do it......
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67427

great. and i was almost done with my preseason work


thanks for the info.

never done this before as i'm not good with anything electrical so i'll run it as is hoping Polaris has it dialied in,but this is some stuff i got off the service manual..

TPS Idle Base Setting Voltage
MODEL
SPECIFICATION
600 DC-CFI Engine
.94-.96 VDC
800 DC-CFI Engine
.93-.95 VDC

The idle TPS setting should be between .930-.950

rudy...those are both the idle settings..base setting is the one that calibrates the tps to the computer..the idle setting calibrates idle speed to throttleplate opening to tps setting... normally the base setting on the 800's have been right at .700 vdc...+ or- .01 vdc....the 900 700 from before 07 uses different settings as does the 07 and newer 600 and 700 motors.the 800's have all shared the same settings up till 11(right now neither Eric(mountain horse) or I have a difinitive answer on base setting..manual does give idle setting as .930+or - .01vdc...now why is it worth checking/setting..well it controls fuel flow into the motor based on throttle position, if its set higher(richer) or lower(leaner) could make a big difference onhow the motor runs, how finicky it is to deto and many other things...a few symptoms of one that is off even a small bit is dies when reverse button pushed, wont switch in or out of reverse, idles too low, idles to high, hits deto easily for no reason, motor runs hotter(lean issue), motor doesnt pull rpm /weights as other similar machines, motor isnt as snappy/responsive as similar machines..now for those doing mods..such as turbo's, pipes, heads...this is a very critical setting..I would for sure want to know where its at and that its right...

great post thanks. i've been chasing an rpm gost that was showed up after sitting all summer. hadn't thought about checking tps, will do it now. i had to drop weight in my primary to get my rpms back up (yes, everything else had been done/checked) and have a some weird idle issues once in a while, although not consistently. so how much did you change your base line setting? how far was it off from where you are guessing it should be. i'm sure you will but be sure to post up if you get a verification on those numbers. thanks

pv

PV, mine was set at .740 for a baseline..I se it at .710..which is .30 of a volt..quite a bit in the world of tps volts..that should make a noticable difference....yep sounds like yours may be screwy as well..also remember..any moisture intrusion can mess with a tps sensor big time...

pura vida said:

great post thanks. i've been chasing an rpm gost that was showed up after sitting all summer. hadn't thought about checking tps, will do it now. i had to drop weight in my primary to get my rpms back up (yes, everything else had been done/checked) and have a some weird idle issues once in a while, although not consistently. so how much did you change your base line setting? how far was it off from where you are guessing it should be. i'm sure you will but be sure to post up if you get a verification on those numbers. thanks

pv

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This sounds like an exact description of how my sled is acting. Guess its time to bust out the multimeter. Thanks AK!

I remember seeing somewhere on here that the baseline was .693-.708 so you should be fine setting it at .710. The idle spec is .937-.952. I wrote it down in my phone so that I had it for when I do mine.

Ok, was asked to post pics of my tester..so heres what I use(I do have 2 sets of leads on mine because I also use it for automotive stuff..but the principal is the same..all it does is provide a 5 volt reference voltage and a ground for the tps switch, you then hook your votmeter to the output terminal and read the voltage signal going to the ecm...

this first part is all from an old thread in the dragon IQ section......
[QUOTE






+5V to "Vc"
-5V to "E2" and to the (-) into your digital voltmeter
"Vta" is the output to the (+) on your voltmeter

Also, Remember this is not a TESTER....it is a tool for setting the TPS... you could have a "Bad spot" in the TPS and not have it show up on the meter..

To "TEST" the TPS, you need a good old fashioned analog volt/ohm meter, the kind with a needle and scale.

You hook the probes up to the Vc and Vta terminals and slowly squeeze the throttle lever... look for smooth movement of the needle on the meter without any jumping or dropping off the scale.

I had one TPS that "set well" but it had a dead-spot in it.

Also, The 5 volt regulators from Radioshack come as bad as well... Test for 4.99 to 5.01 volts, with a fresh 9 volt battery before you solder it together... I had 3 out of 5 test low for voltage from the ones I bought at radio shack.[/QUOTE]

heres what I use.....

hey ak, where you located at? think i could swing over and have you help me test my tps (read, i don't have the tools, can i borrow yours...)? i'll bring the beer. what kind you like?

pv

will pm you pv....

Base setting is between .69 and .71 volts and idle setting is between .93 and .95 volts, just looked it up in the service manual.

xmk1080 said:

Base setting is between .69 and .71 volts and idle setting is between .93 and .95 volts, just looked it up in the service manual.

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thanks xmk...and you are right, I called a engineer buddy at polaris and he confirmed it...

As a side note...This is something that should be reserved for experienced mechanics with the knowledge to use tools and understand concepts.

If you do not have these "skills" I recommend that you do not mess with these settings.
You will more than likely make cause problems rather than improve some aspect of performance.

Most owners of these sleds, say 99% of owners, will never have to touch this adjustment or have their dealer do it for them.

I've recently set this for a friend on his sled ... but that was because his TPS failed from accidental damage and was replaced.

Don't even worry about it unless your sled runs poorly.... you could void your warranty by messing with this if YOU cause a problem from a mistake on your part.

just looked it up in the service manual.

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Point me to where I'm wrong... but as far as I can see, this info is not in any factory service manual for the PRO Chassis DC-CFi2 engines
















.

What kind of problems does this cause if it's not set properly?

yep said:

What kind of problems does this cause if it's not set properly?

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it can cause reverse to not work properly(read dies when you hit the button, wont go to reverse at all or come out of reverse), sled doesnt pull hard and ALL other possible symptoms have been checked/corrected, runs rich, runs lean, may hit deto light when another identical sled with same fuel/adjustments runs great,slightly down on rpms when pulling exact same setup as another sled..basically the tps controls fuel mixture via the computer...

Thx

checked mine this morning, with some help from aksnowrider (thanks).

initial testing, idle was .945 and WOT was 4.1 thought i was probably ok.
then checked base setting, it was .725. reset to .700 and got the idle to .930, both on the money. started on first pull after adjustment. was taking 2-3. took about 10 minutes start to finish.

THX AKSNOWRIDER for a great post and an excellent write-up!

Ok Mikey next time we go ride I'm bringing my tester and you can show me how to check my tps