2011 Diamond Drive Removal

kimbermountain · Nov 14, 2011

I have a 2011 M8 HCR. I am trying to remove my Diamond Drive so that I can do a full flush and maintenance on it. I have removed my belt, secondary clutch and have removed 8 nuts from around the DD but it doesn't want to budge. I don't want to break anything so I decided to post on here. Am I missing something?

Tempest · Nov 14, 2011

You need to remove the 5/8 bolt inside the drive shaft from the brake side. You will need a long 12+ inch extension.

kimbermountain · Nov 14, 2011

Where is the bolt located and how do I get to it? I was out looking at it and couldn't see where it is. Do I have to remove something else to find it?

Tempest · Nov 14, 2011

Go to the brake side. Where the rotor and caliper are. The hole in the center, stick a 5/8 socket on an 12+ inch extension and feed it into the drive axle and you will find a bolt inside that attaches the drive axle to the gears inside the gear case. Break the bolt loose and remove and the case should come off from there.

Tempest · Nov 14, 2011

I forgot one thing, you will need to lock the parking brake to break the bolt loose.

kimbermountain · Nov 14, 2011

Thanks for the help. I knew I had to be missing something.

bm77164 · Nov 14, 2011

Tempest said:
I forgot one thing, you will need to lock the parking brake to break the bolt loose.

i saw another post saying the bolt is loc tighted on from the factory? is that the case and do you loctite it when re assembling?

Tempest · Nov 14, 2011

Loctite when re assembling. You don't want it coming loose.

AKGUY · Nov 14, 2011

I'm quite certain you also need to loosen the track way up to take the pressure off the driveshaft - I did.

I'm pretty sure the 2011s also have the single row bearing in the DD that should be replaced with the double row bearing #5203. Better check it out while your in there. That bearing was shot in my 09 with 1,000 miles on it - replaced it this weekend with the 5203.

Good luck.

bm77164 · Nov 15, 2011

AKGUY said:
I'm quite certain you also need to loosen the track way up to take the pressure off the driveshaft - I did.

I'm pretty sure the 2011s also have the single row bearing in the DD that should be replaced with the double row bearing #5203. Better check it out while your in there. That bearing was shot in my 09 with 1,000 miles on it - replaced it this weekend with the 5203.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up, up pulling my DD of on a 09 M8T today...which bearing are you referring to? I have never seen the DD completely removed. I have seen lots of threads about bearing failures. I wonder if local cat shop would have the new bearing in stock... Do you need the bearing pressed in or out?

bm77164 · Nov 15, 2011

bearing part #

AKGUY said:
I'm quite certain you also need to loosen the track way up to take the pressure off the driveshaft - I did.

I'm pretty sure the 2011s also have the single row bearing in the DD that should be replaced with the double row bearing #5203. Better check it out while your in there. That bearing was shot in my 09 with 1,000 miles on it - replaced it this weekend with the 5203.

Good luck.

one other question...some guys are claiming you need to machine a little off the shoulder to get the 5203 to fit and are recomending the 4203
instead beacause it is just a touch narrower. ever heard of this?

Coldfinger · Nov 15, 2011

I'd also like an official ruling on the machining (from Cat) but don't think they are going to give one. BDX is saying take DD out, install 5203 and put DD back in w/o machining but some guys are saying you need to machine the drive shaft. I think some guys have machined the gear instead of the drive shaft, but I've heard most that are doing the machine work are taking it off the shaft.

The 4203 is not an angular contact bearing. The fit is perfect and it is a stronger bearing, but if there is side load (which people say there is) the 4203 will not last.

The 4203 is also harder to source. I think it is a $42 bearing.

907to406 · Nov 15, 2011

If its your first time removing the diamond drive it might take a little massaging with a rubber mallet, I know mine did.

waycooljr · Nov 15, 2011

I had a 10'HCR last year. Pulled the DD off to put the 5203 bearing on, and it fit just fine. Still had some play in the gearset in the case and the 2 case halves fit together without any resistance. I now have an 11'HCR!! Wanted to update bearing to 5203 style, so I removed old 6203 bearing and spacer, pressed 5203 bearing on and the two case halves would not fit together correctly. I ended up maching the shaft down .050 where the bearing race rests so I could press the bearing further on the shaft. This enabled the two case halves to fit properly. Installed everything back to normal and all is good!! hope this helps!! And your answer to "Cat" suggesting the 5203 bearing for replacement or having information on the machining process is, well, NO!! They have no info for this process!!

347strokin · Nov 15, 2011

waycooljr said:
I had a 10'HCR last year. Pulled the DD off to put the 5203 bearing on, and it fit just fine. Still had some play in the gearset in the case and the 2 case halves fit together without any resistance. I now have an 11'HCR!! Wanted to update bearing to 5203 style, so I removed old 6203 bearing and spacer, pressed 5203 bearing on and the two case halves would not fit together correctly. I ended up maching the shaft down .050 where the bearing race rests so I could press the bearing further on the shaft. This enabled the two case halves to fit properly. Installed everything back to normal and all is good!! hope this helps!! And your answer to "Cat" suggesting the 5203 bearing for replacement or having information on the machining process is, well, NO!! They have no info for this process!!

Is anyone doing the machining at home somehow or just bringing it to a shop? And if bringing it to a shop, anyone recommend one in Calgary?

AKGUY · Nov 16, 2011

I basically followed the instructions in post #13 here:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207098&highlight=6203

I bought a 5203 sealed bearing, gently removed the plastic seals, cleaned out the cheapo factory grease (per other suggestions), and packed it about 50% full with lithium grease, reinstalled the seals, and installed the new bearing.

I bought a 3 prong bearing/gear puller to remove the old single row bearing. I pressed on the new bearing with a bench vise. Lot's of threads with pics and info on this procedure - hope this helps. Good luck.

bm77164 · Nov 16, 2011

907to406 said:
If its your first time removing the diamond drive it might take a little massaging with a rubber mallet, I know mine did.

Ya it did not want to go on at all, all bearings looked great on the inside, so I left them alone, but man what a nightmare to get back on!

bm77164 · Nov 16, 2011

Coldfinger said:
I'd also like an official ruling on the machining (from Cat) but don't think they are going to give one. BDX is saying take DD out, install 5203 and put DD back in w/o machining but some guys are saying you need to machine the drive shaft. I think some guys have machined the gear instead of the drive shaft, but I've heard most that are doing the machine work are taking it off the shaft.

The 4203 is not an angular contact bearing. The fit is perfect and it is a stronger bearing, but if there is side load (which people say there is) the 4203 will not last.

The 4203 is also harder to source. I think it is a $42 bearing.

I heard the 5203 will fit with out have to machine anything on the 09, do you know if that's correct?

Coldfinger · Nov 16, 2011

From what I've read, the 2009 needs no machining to fit a 5203.

Tempest · Nov 16, 2011

The 5203 does fit in the 2009 with no mods needed.

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