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DD wide bearing

B

bacobits

Well-known member
2010 hcr 550 miles and 6203 bearing was shot, half the balls were gone. 5203 wide brng would not let cover go on all the way. Need to have shaft milled down. Wide brng in my 09 m8 and cover pops right on. Is it a year to year issue, or a sled to sled deal?

So far 2 out of 3 DD,s have had shot brngs. 4 more to go, all 09 and 10s. crappy deal.
 
4203 Double bearing went on my 2010 with no issues. Got it from UpJohn. May be easier than milling the shaft.
 
I couldn't get my cover back on my 09 M8 once i changed the bearing out. What i did was backed off the bolt going through the brake rotor, you need lots of extentions on your ratchet to get in there. I backed it off abit and the cover fit right in then just remember to tighten the bolt back up. Not sure if this will help you but it helped me.
 
From what I've read, the 5203 is generally just a drop-in change on the 2009 but on the 2010 it can be tight.

On the 2010 some guys are cutting down the track shaft a hair or machining the gear to get the 5203 to fit better. Other guys are having good luck just removing the whole DD to install the bearing.
 
The best thing to do is measure the 6203 bearing and spacer. Then measure the 5203 which is a 3203 SKF bearing now and see what the difference is. My was 52 thousands. With the diamond drive out I could get the cover on pretty easy but I think that was going to create more of a side load on the bearing. So I took 52 thou off the shaft and installed bearing and went together butter smooth and have not looked back.
 
Steve you might be ok but the 6 drives I have seen apart the shaft always comes out past the inner race of the bearing. To me it looks like the bearing is not on there far enough.
I have a 2010 HCR and this is what my bearing looked like after 600 miles.

View attachment 126787

It had a spacer on the 6203 so the 5203 fit perfect. It seems random whether they need machining or have the spacer.

View attachment 126788
 
The best thing to do is measure the 6203 bearing and spacer. Then measure the 5203 which is a 3203 SKF bearing now and see what the difference is. My was 52 thousands. With the diamond drive out I could get the cover on pretty easy but I think that was going to create more of a side load on the bearing. So I took 52 thou off the shaft and installed bearing and went together butter smooth and have not looked back.

Greeneman is correct...........I did two 2010's and an 09' M8 and when measuring the stock bearing and spacer they were all a little different. There was even a difference in the stack up of the spacer and bearing between the two 2010's. I did the same as you greeneman.........measured the spacer and stock bearing on each sled.........then measured the new bearing going into each sled........and machined the shoulder / bearing seat on each transfer-gear-shaft to make up the difference between the wide bearing and the stack up length of the spacer and stock bearing.

Everything went back together slick after having followed this proceedure. Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Steve you might be ok but the 6 drives I have seen apart the shaft always comes out past the inner race of the bearing. To me it looks like the bearing is not on there far enough.

We,ve done 3 so far, 2 covers popped right on. On those 2 the shaft was flush with org. bearing, both also 09s. On our 2010 the shaft stuck out past the bearing and the cover will not go on. We are gonna try backing off the inside nut and hope for the best. If that doesn't get it removing DD is next.

Thanks for all input.
PS seems like we are all doing arctic cats job for em. Would like to see them step up.
 
For the 2010 models, it sounds like there are two sure ways to get a good & proper fit with the 5203 after the DD is bolted back in place.

a - have the gearshaft machined so the 5203 bearing sits slightly below flush like the OEM bearing does.

b - have the trackshaft machined on one end to take off the same amount as above.

For those of you that have done it, how much does it cost to have the gearshaft machined vs having the trackshaft machined?

To me it seems way easier to just take the gearshaft to the machine shop rather than pull out the trackshaft, but since I've never pulled a trackshaft on a DD sled I don't know. ???
 
Not sure of costs because I have a machine shop at work. But I can tell you shop time should be less than an hour to do the transfer gear shoulder. Most of the time I spent was setup in lathe. With time to machine very little.
Looking at the track shaft I think setup time would be longer and machine time about the same.
Up here machine shops are charging about 100 an hour
 
i have heard that some that dont fit you should check the big bearing and make sure its pressed all the way in to the housing. some may have not been pushed all the way.
 
Pertaining to Cost of Machining.

I have an 08, I know not an 09 or 10, but pertaining to cost of machining. I just picked mine up today with 5203 pressed on and it cost me $65.00. I had to remove .205 off the shoulder of the gear shaft. With spacer removed and bearing pressed on it sat just at the bottom edge of the taper....... perfect. Went together smooth, just waiting on the sealant to dry and try her out.
 
For the 2010 models, it sounds like there are two sure ways to get a good & proper fit with the 5203 after the DD is bolted back in place.

a - have the gearshaft machined so the 5203 bearing sits slightly below flush like the OEM bearing does.

b - have the trackshaft machined on one end to take off the same amount as above.

For those of you that have done it, how much does it cost to have the gearshaft machined vs having the trackshaft machined?

To me it seems way easier to just take the gearshaft to the machine shop rather than pull out the trackshaft, but since I've never pulled a trackshaft on a DD sled I don't know. ???

I just used a Dremel with the stone wheel and ground 1/8" down the gear. It fit perfect and can be done in five mintues. Haven't had any issues still working fine with 1200 miles.
 
Just picked up a 2010 HCR with 750 miles, What do I need to look for, oil leaking from the DD?

Nope. You will have to take the DD out or at least take the cover off to inspect the bearing. Once you get the cover off, disassemble down til you get to the gear with the bearing on the end. If that bearing is a single row bearing with a spacer behind it, it hasn't been replaced and needs to be.
 
Out of curiousity, is there a 6203 bearing that 'fixes' this issue? Or is the 5203 (and possible machining/shortening) the best/only true 'fix'?
 
I couldn't get my cover back on my 09 M8 once i changed the bearing out. What i did was backed off the bolt going through the brake rotor, you need lots of extentions on your ratchet to get in there. I backed it off abit and the cover fit right in then just remember to tighten the bolt back up. Not sure if this will help you but it helped me.

After a night to mull it over, backing off the inside nut sounds easy enough but I keep hearing that the org. bearing fails because of too much side pressure. My question is that if I loosen the nut to make the cover fit then tightin, won't that just put too much pressure on the 5203? Just wondering.
 
After a night to mull it over, backing off the inside nut sounds easy enough but I keep hearing that the org. bearing fails because of too much side pressure. My question is that if I loosen the nut to make the cover fit then tightin, won't that just put too much pressure on the 5203? Just wondering.
the stock 6203 bearing is not a bearing that will take side loads and it fails because of this.

the 5203 is a double row and is an axial side load bearing.

makes sense to me.
 
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