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05 900 clutching..CANT DECIDE..INPUTS PLEASE!!

guidoxpress

guidoxpress

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
ok guys..i have read pretty much every clutching thread i could find on the 900s..but still cant decide what i need..but have narrowed the choices..

it an 05 rmk 900 166 track..
ride at 6000-8000ft
i ride trail/boondock/hillclimb rarely but would like to..

i went out last weekend and was hitting 8050rpms at 71MPH..it didnt stay at high RPM consistently, but couldnt test it on hillclmibing cause there wasnt much to climb there..

when i get my tax return, i will be sending my primary and secondary to Indydan for balance/shim but want to send him the right stuff the first time..

I HAVE SLP PIPE/CAN/REFLASH as well

I currently have:
P-85 primary with Lightning 70g weights
Team Green Spring (140/330)
TSS-98 Secondary with Red/Black Spring (140/240)
stock helix-64/40.36ER
GOING TO RUN 18/40 GEARS with ATF
3211115 Belt


here is my choices i have narrowed it down too but dont quite know what difference the spring rates will affect..

Primary-
Blue/Pink Spring (140-340)
Green/Pink Spring (160/340)
Red spring (140/320)
Black/Green (120/340)

Secondary-
Red/Pink (140/260)
Black/White (160/260)
Red/Black (140/240)
2 Derlin Washers

Helix-
66/44-42ER
66/44-46ER
64/42-46ER

Weights-
MTX 74g w/2g in outter hole
Heelclickers setup (with primary machining)

Any inputs on what i should try out..cant afford to buy more then one of each to try out?????
 
Last edited:
hey guido this is what i am running

66-42 .46/ 66-44 .46 helix red/black spring, derlin washers, 11-70 weights, slp green/pink spring

if you are already over 8000 rpms you don't want to increase the finish pressure on your primary i would leave it the same and increase your weights by 2g. most of us are running this helix and it seems to work great for me. good luck:beer;
 
for your primary spring i would see where you are at for max rpm ON LONG UPHILL PULLS, that way your clutches are not stuck in overdrive on the trail. then decide where you need to change your rpms to, also the primary spring is going to change your engagement rpms, If you want more rpms you need to use a lighter weight or a higher final force spring. (The starting force of the spring is what determines your engagement RPM( higher force higher engagement)) 05 900's should be pulling a steady 7500 + or minus 50 rpm on a good hill.

Springs are cheap compared to weight sets... as long as you are not going crazy with the change the whole "system" of clutch operation will be the same.
The Higher finish force will give you higher RPM's with your existing weights but give a bit slower back-shift.


on the secondary spring i would stay with the stock red black seems to work very well on my sled

on the helix I'm using the 66/42-46 helix and it works great..




so get on the hills with your sled and try to find out what rpm its running at loaded and go from there on the primary spring.


hope this helps
 
Last edited:
Quido, I second these guys, this combo works great. Recommend the slp mtx weights, they give some adjustment for rpm and shift hard.
 
Guido, I sent my primary to Carls for a rebuild and balancing (20 year doo guy and don't have all the tools yet)

Here's my set-up for an 06 166 SLP pipe, reflash, and stock airbox
10-70 weights
140/330 black polaris spring
shimmed and balanced

66-42 twin track helix (big difference from stock)
Red/Black spring
2 delrin washers

19/42 gears and holds 7,800 rpm all day in the deep with cool temps 4,000-6,000 feet


Might like to try the red/pink in the sec or move the helix to the 66/44 position. One thing I'd like to be able to get is a little better responsiveness at lower throttle positions as it seems that my sled likes to be in a higher rpm range. Just haven't figured out how to adjust/or which way to go to accomplish this. Pretty picky though as it kicks A$$ they way it is


Buddys 05 159 SLP pipe and flash with identical primary, 18-40 gears but stock helix backshifts (downshifts) MUCH, MUCH slower with the stock 64/38.25 helix than the 66/42.46
 
Last edited:
GUYS,
great fast info here..much appreciated..

i know pulling a narly hill will be the factor, but havent had a chance to do that yet..also a little nervous to crank on sweet hill until i get my clutch balance/shimmed by dan in a few weeks..really dont want to blow a belt under load :eek

i think i will FIRST try and stick with the primary setup i have now..seems to match what you guys are running..

i will concentrate on the secondary helix/spring..my backshifting SUX!!

what engagement RPM are you guys hitting with your primary springs..i wouldnt mind getting more of the low end torque these babies throw out
 
Dawg,
good to know..thank you again..

the primary is all making sense to me, and i think i know what i will do then..

BUT as far as the secondary goes (with the 66/42-46) ..what kind of difference would the 140/260 spring make to the 160/260 spring..just higher rpm backshifting..?? sorry the secondary just confuses me a little..
 
Last edited:
guidoxpress said:
Dawg,
good to know..thank you again..

the primary is all making sense to me, and i think i know what i will do then..

BUT as far as the secondary goes (with the 66/42-46) ..what kind of difference would the 140/260 spring make to the 180/260 spring..just higher rpm backshifting..?? sorry the secondary just confuses me a little..
Click to expand...


the 140/260 will start to up shift faster loading the motor more and back shift slower
 
springs

BIGGDAWG said:
the 140/260 will start to up shift faster loading the motor more and back shift slower
Click to expand...

Dawg,

thanks again...rep for you all...

so the 140 rate is what the red/black has..which seems to be ideal..

the red/blk shift out range is 240 but the others are 260 rate..hmm...

so of coarse you would want a faster downshift rate...would anything lower then a 240 be TOO fast..

DAVE--i switched my avatar for you..you dont like the SCARED face..haha..thats what the wife gets for wanting to take random pics of me driving..lol..!!
 
Last edited:
Just out of curiosity, what belt are you guys running?

The reason I ask is last year I was running the 1080 belt, 66/44-42ER Helix, 19/42 gears, stock spring (red/black?) and my sled honestly felt snappier.

This year I have the 31115 belt, and it is already so close I don't think I need to shim the primary for clearance.

But, my question is, should I go with a stiffer spring in my secondary due to the 3115 belt being harder and hence perhaps having more of a tendency to slip?

I have not yet gone through the secondary this year to set belt deflection, I will do that tomorrow most likley.

It's gonna be kinda difficult for me to compare primary setups with you all because I have that AC clutch ...

The AC clutch I have right now:

69g weights (I think 10-69's)
Stock AC Yellow/Green spring (134/264)

Stock polaris Black/Green spring was (120/340) ... but that was _WAY_ too stiff of spring for this AC clutch, it wouldn't shift out all the way with a spring that stiff in it.

What would you all recommend? Going with a slightly stiffer spring in my secondary then making sure my belt deflection is set right?
 
I'm running the 3211080 belt on my 05 900. had some issues with getting 250-500 miles out of a belt then it would start to pull some threads.. this summer i put comp fusions mounts in and it made a huge difference in clutch temps, belt life and vibration and its so much cheaper than the 115.. also the 115 is a little hard on your clutch sheaves usually wearing a grove around where the belt idles on the clutch. so maybe a heavier secondary spring would help. but it will screw up you back shifting and other clutch operation aspects.
 
Mule,

whats your clutch setup..??

how long have you been running that belt..how many miles you get on them usually..
 
guidoxpress said:
...i went out last weekend and was hitting 8050rpms at 71MPH..it held the high RPM, but couldnt test it on hillclmibing cause there wasnt much to climb there...
Click to expand...

8000RPM... are you sure that is your peak HP?
if there is a dyno near your place give it a try. will cost you only 2hrs of work.

if you have the stock crank and cylinders your peak hp should not be different from others. using a turbo or nitous it will make more power but the RPM where the peak HP is, wont change that much.

krat
 
Krat..

HP, or MPH..i am not sure what my HP is set at..and there is no where near me that would have a DYNO..

and i mis-wrote that comment..i hit 8050RPM, but i DID NOT hold that..it was holding 7800ish..but i wanted more bottom end..

but i also had a bog every now and then at exactly 6000RPM..was sluggish, then would rip, then bog again..so i need to get that worked before i get into the clutching..

i have stock crank (well rebuild march 08) and cylinders..i have NOS but havent used it all season yet.so not sure what i will be hitting with that..

KRAT...what is your clutch setup...rpms, ect..

did the 18/39 need a new chain (shorter) why didnt you do the 40T?
 
guidoxpress said:
Mule,

whats your clutch setup..??

how long have you been running that belt..how many miles you get on them usually..
Click to expand...

Black/green in the primary, whatever vickery's 10k+ setup is.

Got ~350mi on so far this season, along with several wrecks, a few trees, rollovers, deep pow, WOT....
 
Does anyone have a part # for the Red/Pink spring for the secondary?
 
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