I have been struggling with a low to mid range bog for a year and a half. I finally figured it out yesterday. The clear plastic tube that comes out of the ECU was routed wrong. I had it routed so it pointed down in the bottom of my belly pan. While riding yesterday. I was pissed off and tired of the sled so I stopped and opened the hood to check things over. My friend look at that tube and said try routing that tube a different direction. So I routed it along the main wiring harness back towards the fuel tank. Closed the hood started the sled and punched the throttle, it was like someone flipped a switch. The sled ran totally different, it ripped all day long. THE BOG IS GONE!!!!! If anyone is curious I have a Injector perfector, a "Thing" can, and a RK-Tek secondary installed. So if you have a bog check the routing of that plastic tube. Good luck.
My M7 Bog Is gone. I figured it out!!!!
- Thread starter CATCRAZY
- Start date
Mine is routed down too hmmmmmmmmm........................ I have a nasty problem with mine terrible mid range cuts one cylinder out. Might help a bit??
Try moving it and see what happens
I have tried that with no success!
Thanks for the post. Curious, there are 15-20 theories why this thing bogs! Why would AC be planning another update/re-flash if it was just a barometric tube location/kink? Very frustrated at this point! I have black oil all over my chassis behind the clutches and it smells of chain case oil! Made my belt prematurely wear and slip and once I adjusted deflection 2/3's of my bog is gone??
Here is what I know of possible theories for bog so far (again a dOO guy trying a cat so bear with me):
Clutching, springs, broken components, poor deflection
Too high of gas octane
poor fuel/mapping program
block/kinked barometric tube coming out of ecu
loose y-pipe-pipe connection
TPS failure, tight throttle cable
poor air flow, too lean, too fat
aftermarket crap and need for fuel box
I am sure i am missing a few other possible scenarios
I think you get the point!
Thanks for the post. Curious, there are 15-20 theories why this thing bogs! Why would AC be planning another update/re-flash if it was just a barometric tube location/kink? Very frustrated at this point! I have black oil all over my chassis behind the clutches and it smells of chain case oil! Made my belt prematurely wear and slip and once I adjusted deflection 2/3's of my bog is gone??
Here is what I know of possible theories for bog so far (again a dOO guy trying a cat so bear with me):
Clutching, springs, broken components, poor deflection
Too high of gas octane
poor fuel/mapping program
block/kinked barometric tube coming out of ecu
loose y-pipe-pipe connection
TPS failure, tight throttle cable
poor air flow, too lean, too fat
aftermarket crap and need for fuel box
I am sure i am missing a few other possible scenarios
I think you get the point!
Slediot,
I am not clear on your post. Have you ever had a bog? You said that it is routed towards the steering post, has it always been routed like that? I will take pictures this afternoon and post them.
Thanks.
I am not clear on your post. Have you ever had a bog? You said that it is routed towards the steering post, has it always been routed like that? I will take pictures this afternoon and post them.
Thanks.
R
Rms Rydning
Well-known member
I had a buddy with simular bog.The plastic tube was squised so the ecu got wrong readings.
S
speeddemon
Well-known member
i would have to agree on this to some extent ! had a friends cut his hose short on the ECU for some reason and the sled never ran the same. ran like crap ! was told by cat it had to be a certain length to read right he put on a new hose to the stock length and it rans great !! i dont understand the direction making a diff but hey if it works great ! i like these posts cause it throws a new idea into play for everyone !
mike
mike
I had the samething i ran my plastic hose back toward the Y pipe where it is hot and the snow always melts there. I found that as soon as the tip would get plugged with snow or ice the sled would run like crap now since i rerouted the plastic hose runs awsome all the time!!
What is the plastic tube for? Is it on the M8/M1000 also? Want to know learning every thing I can about these EFI sleds before buying one. Ya I know,,, hands on is the way to go. Been out of the sport so long now all I know is clutching and gearing anymore. So trying to learn everything I can about this so called new technology. Don't want to sound negative just marveled at the problems these sleds have.
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D
DVarmit
ACCOUNT CLOSED
I believe he is talking about the Barometric tube which measures the air pressure and adjusts the fuel intake accordingly. If it is not measuring correctly then the sleds fuel mixture/flow with be incorrect and the sled will bog or run like garbage.
placement of tube
Where is the correct placement of the tube?
Where is the correct placement of the tube?
Here are some pictures of the tube. The first one is the incorrect routing, down into the belly pan. The second is the correct routing. It got a little cold here last night, the inside of the trailer is a little frosted over...
Thanks for the pic man
I have had my tube headed that direction all along. I think most of my bog is from belt deflection/clutching. I have a significant leak at the DD and it is leaking onto the clutches and causing slippage etc. Just need to decide to chance bringing my sled back to the idiot dealer that I bought it from or just fix it myself. At least if I repair it myself I know what was done. HOwever, a bit worried I would void my warranty?
Thanks for the pic.
Oh yeah, does that air intake mod work well? WHat else do I need to do if I run that? I saw one on a add for $100 or best offer. Just not sure if I will make my bog worse or if I will then need a fuel box?
Dan
I have had my tube headed that direction all along. I think most of my bog is from belt deflection/clutching. I have a significant leak at the DD and it is leaking onto the clutches and causing slippage etc. Just need to decide to chance bringing my sled back to the idiot dealer that I bought it from or just fix it myself. At least if I repair it myself I know what was done. HOwever, a bit worried I would void my warranty?
Thanks for the pic.
Oh yeah, does that air intake mod work well? WHat else do I need to do if I run that? I saw one on a add for $100 or best offer. Just not sure if I will make my bog worse or if I will then need a fuel box?
Dan
I made the intake myself, it resembles the Timber Sled intake. It works very good. You will not need to add a fuel controller, you will probably need to add more vents though. I purchased the 3 piece hood vent kit from Mo-flow vents. He has a great product for a great price, very easy to install. Good luck!!
the tube thing
on our f7's in 03 when riding in deep cold fine grained powder this tube would plug and get little plugs of ice in it, and then your sled either goes into limp home mode or something..........misses and won't run over about 5500 rpm, then when you pull the tube, blow out the ice, sled runs great, so we put the stock tube inside a larger gas line size plastic line and ran the end back in the area of the recoil starter when it warm and never had the problem again. Never had the problem on my m series sleds, maybe cause we have better front hood vents?
on our f7's in 03 when riding in deep cold fine grained powder this tube would plug and get little plugs of ice in it, and then your sled either goes into limp home mode or something..........misses and won't run over about 5500 rpm, then when you pull the tube, blow out the ice, sled runs great, so we put the stock tube inside a larger gas line size plastic line and ran the end back in the area of the recoil starter when it warm and never had the problem again. Never had the problem on my m series sleds, maybe cause we have better front hood vents?
wow I was going to start a thread today about this. We just got back from the mountain and we had one of our 09 M8 Demos with a guest on it. He asked me to ride it said it was bogging badly and using a ton of fuel. This sled has about 150 miles and sips fuel and rips. I started checking it over thinking maybe the oil pump was sticking. I took it for a rip and it ran like poo. So I thought for a moment and decided to see if we had any codes on the gauge. It is a sno pro and I noticed the altimeter was reading 0. a light bulb went off barometric pressure sensor-the efi uses it for calibration and the altimeter. I pulled the tube up and it was iced up. Blew it out fired sled up 5300 feet on the gauge and perfect running. Routed down is the correct routing from the factory by the way. It is just ironic that I decided to browse some threads before posting and came across this. I believe you want to route it to get as close to real outside air just like a cold air intake versus hot under hood heat. But of course you don't want it to ice over.
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