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09 M1000 bogs just like the 08's ???

quickkarzracing

Member
Premium Member
09 Ltd m1000 snopro speedwerx y-pipe, pipe & can Bd box & koso egt guage.

Ran this sled today with 87 octane put various fuel maps from rich to lean i found when my clutch side egt reading would be lets say reading 900 degress & can side 400 degress it would bog like crazy,when the numbers were within 50 degress of each other say 800 & 850 degress it would clear itself up and pull hard. Note, all this testing was done on the trails as there was no way this thug was climbing anything, any one no the Boondocker settings for the following elevations 1000-4000, 4000-8000,8000-10000. I live on Vancouver island so we unload @ 1000ft My 08 did the very same thing and i was only running y-pipe,can & bmp fuel reg it also ran like S_ _ _ at lower elevation. i have been following the 08 bog thread seems like every one there is just as frusturated this is starting to really p me off any help would be great.
 
that's because you were detonating like crazy and have likely destroyed your engine. you MUST run 92 octane when adding a pipe to any sled. Have fun with the rebuild! :eek:
 
EGT readings are only valid when verified by plug and pistin readings. I agree with quick that you were detonating and that you need to run 91 or better octane. Hope the motor lives.
 
You could be running way rich. I was adjusting mine at a hill and decided to raise my middle setting way up at 6700 because it was running really hot going down the trail. When I went to climb again it would just bog at wot. Right cylinder was about 300 and left was about 1100. Leaned it back down and it started running on both cylinders again.
 
The 09s seem to be very fat on bottom amd mid range who ever came up with new fuel map on the 09s should be shot. They look like a fricken kenworth when you take off.
 
Where do you find close starting numbers @ different elevations, i looked on BD site and speedwerx and nothin. Are you guys running 87 or 91 cat says 85-87 but with my set up i would of thought higher octane but it doesn't like it ive tried both, i no once everyone figures out this minor issue these sleds are gonna rip, until then i guess i just wait and see what happens.My dealer Jason Hughs from Leading Edge Motor Sports set it up at his shop and can't belive the issues and he is a very repituable guy, i think in a few weeks i'll let him F_ _ _ with it the only thing its a 2 day venture thought id try SW first any suggestions would be great.
 
M7seven my did the very same thing so i lowered my mid #'s my egt's were close ran great until i droped in elevation and were only talking 500 ft the bog was back ?
 
quickkarzracing: I am also fighting this same problem. But mine does it stock or modded. My modds are SLP pipe set, speedwerx airbox, boondocker box, koso egt. I have tried tuning it with all of the mods and also have ran it stoc kit doesn't seem to matter still bogs terrible. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!
 
Broke sled in at Blue River - first day had oil in the tank so some minor bogging. Next day, fresh fuel sled ran very well. Just finished adding SPL Y-Pipe, SLP pipe, SLP can, SLP MTX weights, AEM A/F gauge, and PureLogic control box. Took the sled out along the gas lines and no issues. Sled pulls good, feels much better than my '07. A/F shows rich on top so will work on that on boxing day.
 
VPFREE,

What A/F ratio did they tell you to shoot for at Howie's. I had the AEM A/F guage installed as well and they told me I am safe at 14.5.
There were some guys talking on here today saying 12.5.
My 08 M1000 is rich right across the board; I am leaning it out on almost every rpm range so far and am now only getting up to the 12.5-13.5 range.
 
Ditch, be careful. A two-stroke is not run safely at an air-fuel ratio at 14,5. A two-stroke does not perfom the best at such a high ratio. You should stay below 13 to be "safe", and have good performance.

On the bog: I run a 2007 1000, with Rk-tek head, Speedwerx pipe/y-pipe. I could not get this thing to run bogless with anything but the stock can. Cost me some lbs, but thats ok.
 
A/F Ratio

At w.o.t. you will get the most power from a a/f ratio around 12.5, cruising down the packed trail with not much load on the engine you will get the best economy (m.p.g.) at a ratio of 14.7. Like stated above 14.5 at w.o.t. for very long and you will have a melted mess of pistons, maybe cylinders too.
 
Thanks for the info guys..... It's much better to learn it this way than the hard way. I did kinda start to wonder about the 14.5 number when I was riding a couple weeks back and found the sled to run really strong at 12.5 to 13. I guess this is the numbers I will tune to from here on in.

Much appreciated.
 
quickkarzracing: I am also fighting this same problem. But mine does it stock or modded. My modds are SLP pipe set, speedwerx airbox, boondocker box, koso egt. I have tried tuning it with all of the mods and also have ran it stoc kit doesn't seem to matter still bogs terrible. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!

same thing, speedwerx pipe, can, y pipe, snoprp air box, rkt heads, My bd # are in the -4 to -6 right up to 6700 then you need to start poring the fuel to it from + 10 to + 20 at 7800 hi, Mine will run good but like stated earlier you drop 500 feet and re adjust, my mag will drop egts down to 400 or 500 after a couple of good pulls, a little wrench will appear on gauge and mag side will remain dead, only fix is leave it sit for 5 min, pull rope and drive away as if nothing happened, when this thing runs it is unbelievable but turning out to be far too tempermental for a sled I tried to leave as stock and dumby proof as possible, Last sled was a twin piped BB M800 that only required 1 BD setting change for a 7000 ft spread, I cant get this one to handle 1000 ft spread, by the way, any one know what it means when the wrench comes on on the gauge and stays on, no flashing, just solid
 
that's because you were detonating like crazy and have likely destroyed your engine. you MUST run 92 octane when adding a pipe to any sled. Have fun with the rebuild! :eek:
.....adding octane because of exhaust system mods is absolutely not necessary...only when head mods that increase compression or decrease squish, is octane increase necessary....addition of pipes, y-pipes etc, necessitate the addition of more fuel, not octane, hence the need for a fuel controller to increase fuel....the use of mid-grade gas is sufficient...i don't ride at low altitude, so i'm not familiar with what pump gas octane levels are, but they should be generally higher than at higher altitudes...where i ride (7-11 k), mid-grade is 87 octane and premium is 91....with similar mods as was reported, i use 87 with no problems.....the only problem i had with my 09 1000, is a bit of gurgle at 42-4400 rpm...with the bd box, i added just 1 number at 3000 rpm, both lo and mid.....at 5000 rpm, i took away 1 at lo and mid...tuning altiude was 8400 feet....i still had a slight gurgle at 4200 rpm, but throttle response was best with these numbers...i could get a slightly better throttle response by going to -3 at 5000 rpm, both lo and mid, but i was getting an occasional lean pop if i was at that rpm for more than a few seconds, so i richened it to just -1 for the best balance between throttle response and overall rideability without lean pops occuring....just discussing the low bog, as at higher rpms i added fuel all the way with high settings ranging from +5 to +8 at the higher rpm settings.....i clutch to 7350 on the road, with the clutching settleing back to about 7200 on the hills........i rode with these settings for four hours, and tried several minor variations, but always came back to these as being the best overall....plug readings were always safe, with the deposit/clean break on the plug electrode occuring at the bend of the "L", and max temps being 1225 degrees, with the egt sensor 2" downstream of the junction of the y-pipe/pipe....hope this helps..........
 
Yup yer sled went into protect mode and 1 cylinder fogged on ya. Its probably Ok but dont do it to often. Mine had to much fuel pressure and was doing the same thing, 800 degrees and 400 on the other. I had a fuel pressure regulator put in and knocked 6-7 lbs off and brought it back with the pure logic fuel controller. Runs very nice now..........
 
I think i need a fuel pressure gauge, since my numbers are all consistently lower then my engine builders recomendations, what is spec about 44 to 45 psi, also also my 20 to 1 oil ratio has got to go, what are most of you getting for a ratio is 35 or 40 to 1 safe on 1000 with very good oil, how much does over oiling effect wash and fuel mixture, I am afraid if i lean out the oil without adding back fuel it will not work out so good, any suggestions
 
can you say oil bog, after break in I can't imagine running any thing more than 32:1 on the oil and thats fat. I'd go 40:1. running high octane also depends on your timing and heat not just the compression ratio. 91 octane eliminates the risk a little,
 
I first started riding the sled as set up to get a base line on the ratio over 2 days, it was 20 to 1 both days, did the usual ac min of 3 turns on the oil pump and rode to check ratio, strange it did not seem to make much of a difference, finally got mad the other day and pulled the air box and boots so I could see the boss marks on the pump, It took three more turns just to get the marks to line up, thats six in total just to get the ratio to stock setting, and no I did not go the wrong way the first time, Now my pipe is dry and does not leak 3 onze of oil when you take it off, sled is way more responsive and piston wash and plugs are starting to make sence, Moral here is do not assume any thing, some one at the factory has a kick to the junk comming from me. Don't jump all over my dealer on this one, I pick my machines up still in the crate, this was a self inflicted gun shot wound. But for all those with a bog, this is the second time I have heard of 09 being way out to lunch on oil, check your lines on your pump, it makes a huge difference. Only bad part is now that this thing makes power I am experiencing the same clutching wall were it just quits accelerating. It feels like there is so much more there
 
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