Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2006 switchback primary clutch sticking

Got a stock 2006 switchback HO and the primary clutch sticks and does not want to dis-engage sometimes and other times it is fine. It has been back to the dealer twice and both times they say it is fixed. Went out the other day, Went to drive it off the trailer and more less it drove itself right off. The dealer says it just needed to be clean it only has 12oo miles on it. Also have a RMK 2006 and it has never had a problem. Any suggestions, Should I try and change the springs any help would be great.

Thanks
 
Happened to my wife's sled. She had cooked the belts so many times it warped the thing! Got a used pull off from an RMK for about the same as the rebuild cost. You just don't know if the housing is damaged after rebuild. Replace and gear down if you are going off the trail in wet or deep snow, hilly, bumpy, trees, or are not used to giving it a ton of t'rottle to get going.

If replacement not an option hopefully some one who knows more about clutches will help?
 
I'd pull it apart myself and look for any binding parts or other issues. I don't trust other people to work on my stuff.
 
I wouldn't go looking for a new one. Send it off to Carls Cycle and have them clean it chances are that is all its probably gonna need. They check springs,weights,check the sheeves and balance it which is a lot less then a new one or a used one that more than likely isn't in any better shape. You should have it cleaned every year belt dust can glog these up easy.
 
Thanks for the info guys

I will take it off and look at it clean it up real good and try it again. If it still does the same thing them maybe I will send it in. The thing that gets me mad is it's been back to polaris twice and they can not seem to get it fixed. Frustrating:mad::mad::mad:
 
It needs to be dissasembled and cleaned completely apart and you should replace the spring every year. Good Luck!:beer;
 
Another victim of the tight movable sheave bushing. Not exactly unheard of with polaris clutches of late. Whether it's tolerances or swelling bushings either way they can start out great but get tight later on. Many times replacing the bushing does no good. If the inner shaft checks out good then the bushing need to be clearanced a hair for better fit. A light sanding with some fine paper will do the job. Trouble is, you likely need to take it to a dealer in order to have the proper tools to get it apart.
A couple things that seem to make the problem worse are letting the sled idle for a long time warming up and having belt failure. Idling the sled when cold will make the inner shaft warm and expand quicker than the sheave due to belt rubbing on it. Many are ok once the sled gets running for a bit and the temps equalize. Belt failure makes the sheave slam against the inner sheave distorting the aluminum and pressing the steel retaining ring into the bushing making it tighter.
 
I have the exact same problem with the same exact sled and was going to post it on here, but you beat me to it! When cold, it won't engage the first two times you try, but the third time it does and hangs up, like its on cruise control! Kill the motor, and you can't crank it back up as its trying to turn the belt too.

I've been taking the side panel off and kick the primary a few times and it seems to be OK (dumb *** I know). I'm running SLP MTX weights and spring; she's coming off tomorrow for quick clean up to see what I can do. Hopefully I don't have to take it somewheres to get into the spider and stuff...
 
ditto

Another victim of the tight movable sheave bushing. Not exactly unheard of with polaris clutches of late. Whether it's tolerances or swelling bushings either way they can start out great but get tight later on. Many times replacing the bushing does no good. If the inner shaft checks out good then the bushing need to be clearanced a hair for better fit. A light sanding with some fine paper will do the job. Trouble is, you likely need to take it to a dealer in order to have the proper tools to get it apart.
A couple things that seem to make the problem worse are letting the sled idle for a long time warming up and having belt failure. Idling the sled when cold will make the inner shaft warm and expand quicker than the sheave due to belt rubbing on it. Many are ok once the sled gets running for a bit and the temps equalize. Belt failure makes the sheave slam against the inner sheave distorting the aluminum and pressing the steel retaining ring into the bushing making it tighter.

Note: as comp said...........replacing the bushing rarely works.

it needs to be clearanced, ( proper way to clearance ) is by sanding O.D. of the bushing itself until it fits with lite press.

NOT the I.D. of the bushing ( special material ) very thin coating NOT sandable.

NOT the moveable sheave itself.

this is a feel thing.........Every clutch this happens to will need to be custom fit. if you go to far you ruin the bushing and you need to get a new one again.

As Comp said, blowing belts is the main reason this happens and it drives the bushing in to deep and close the bushing clearance.

Dan
 
Thanks Guys

I was away for christmas with no internet. Well at least I have some good ideas as were to start. I will have look at it this weekend and see if it will get any better

Thanks for the info:):):)
 
I took my primary apart as much as I could, sanded the weights and weight screws, blew it all out etc and I've still got the same b.s. problem. When initially cold, it won't engage until the 3rd time revving it up, then its away and its on slow cruise control when you go to stop. After riding it to warm everything up, it eventually works itself out and is fine, but boy is it a PITA for the first 10 minutes or so.

I've got another good primary off a 440 ProX which I'm going to put my weights and spring in and try it.

Dan, is this a clearance problem between the belt and the bottom of the pulleys, where you have to pull the spider and change shims? I've never blown a belt or anything else catastrophic on this sled and I'm only at 1100 miles.
 
I took my primary apart as much as I could, sanded the weights and weight screws, blew it all out etc and I've still got the same b.s. problem. When initially cold, it won't engage until the 3rd time revving it up, then its away and its on slow cruise control when you go to stop. After riding it to warm everything up, it eventually works itself out and is fine, but boy is it a PITA for the first 10 minutes or so.

I've got another good primary off a 440 ProX which I'm going to put my weights and spring in and try it.

Dan, is this a clearance problem between the belt and the bottom of the pulleys, where you have to pull the spider and change shims? I've never blown a belt or anything else catastrophic on this sled and I'm only at 1100 miles.


Yes you will have to remove the spider to repair the bushing.

The bushing is pressed into the moveable sheave.

Comp is right on with his diagnosis.
 
I just went through the same thing on Sunday on my '06 900 RMK. Every once in a while, the clutch wouldn't fully disengage and sled would creep at idle. Got so bad towards the end of the day, if I grabbed the brake hard, the engine would stall. I did find the problem though. One of the rollers had seized and the weight flat-spotted it. All it took was one weight sticking on the roller occassionally to cause me grief. Clutch was pretty much due for a complete rebuild anyways, so I bit the bullet and ordered a complete new primary. Hopefully have it Friday morning.
 
Dan, is this a clearance problem between the belt and the bottom of the pulleys, where you have to pull the spider and change shims? I've never blown a belt or anything else catastrophic on this sled and I'm only at 1100 miles.

the problem is normally The fiber bushing inside the moveable sheave under the steel retainer ring.

the clutch must be tore down all the way to address this problem.

It can stick on either the side button clearance or the fiber bushing. you must tear it all the way down to know which one area the trouble is coming from.

There is a very close clearance balance in the fiber bushing area. If you have it apart and it doesn't seem to bind anywhere chances are its the fiber one that is swelling under load.

Normally if the spider buttons don't bind on the bench they will not bind in the feild.

Good luck.

Dan
 
Thanks a ton guys, this board is the best! Being somewhat ignorant, other than weights and springs, what is the procedure for checking the clearance? I've seen a guy do it quickly before, checking the belt to sheave clearance or something, but I had a falling out with him.

Is this something that you can check with feeler gauges? Thanks again, happy new year!
 
O.K, so today I go to unload my 06 Switchback from the trailer. I gave it a little gas to clean it up, and the primary engaged and the machine launched off my trailer. Smashed into the back of my truck and continued into a snow berm. The clutch was still engaged when I got to it. Even after killing it, the clutch stayed engaged. It was still engaged when I tried to start it. This is the 2nd time the primary has done this. Today was the first time it got away from me. Now I have a damaged sled. I bought this sled this year with 400 miles on it. We have only ridden it 3 times. It stuck the day I brought it home, and I thought it was just from sitting. Now I am convinced there is a problem. Polaris needs to do a recall on these before someone gets hurt or killed. I'm Pissed!
 
Premium Features



Back
Top