I have a 159x15x2.52 challenger track and was woundering what was the best way to port it or if i should even do it and what size hole should i do if i do port it
porting a track
- Thread starter chevy509
- Start date
I'd recommend a 1 1/2" hole saw. If it is dull it will melt through the rubber and cords and you will end up with less chance of tearing or fraying. Just don't get too close to track windows or ribs. Aire on the side of caution with this and you won't sacrifice track durability. Besides, most of the weight that you lose with track porting is the snow that you end up carrying in the skid. I'd recommend it, and good luck!
T
TracksCanada
Member
haha that made me chuckle right there
F
frock
Well-known member
Chevy509 I have done my last 3 sleds and never had a seconds trouble with any of them. As trackscanada indicated, don't use too large of a holesaw. I used an 1 1/4" on all mine and never had any problems. I do all holes on the inside between the clips. I used the pattern 2 then 3 holes, with the holes offset, on all the tracks I did and never had any failures even on a mod king cat on nitrous making around 190-200 hp. I never used the dull holesaw method like many people on here have done, but by the amount of people who have with favourable results I would say it must work. I used a sharp holesaw then used a torch to melt any jagged edges or loose/frayed cord in the holes afterwards just taking care not to overheat the track doing this. As far as using this track to go water skipping I don't know if the ported track makes a difference, some on here say it does and some say it doesn't. I use my sled on the snow and not as a boat so never tested for myself
. Hope this helps.
Cheers;
Shane
. Hope this helps.Cheers;
Shane
T
TracksCanada
Member
Still a little BIG. Time has proven nothing bigger than 3/4 and no more than 2 in center belt and NONE in outside belts. Least amount of failure rate from ported tracks.
There are lots who have done more and never had a problem "YET" That is the key word "YET"
G
Gone Sleddin
Active member
this brings up an interesting point. i wouldnt recomend doing this unless you are running no slip sprockets. the drilled tracks seem to flex more and need to be run tighter if you dont have no slips
if your running extrovert drivers, the ratcheting is no big deal, i ran 3-4 inches of sag on a 144 and never ratcheted it on hardpack snow.
if you do 2 1" holes down the center i have had no troubles with that. i even snaped a peice of my suspension and it kept ripping into the holes on one side for a while before i noticed it, gouged the track a little but it still hasnt ripped.
and the reason people say YET, is well lets face it sleds break, a lot, we thrash em pretty hard. not saying anything isnt possible with them, thats why we say yet, everyone in my group rides with a ported track, and we SLAY trees and we havent lost anything with anyones sled.
if you do 2 1" holes down the center i have had no troubles with that. i even snaped a peice of my suspension and it kept ripping into the holes on one side for a while before i noticed it, gouged the track a little but it still hasnt ripped.
and the reason people say YET, is well lets face it sleds break, a lot, we thrash em pretty hard. not saying anything isnt possible with them, thats why we say yet, everyone in my group rides with a ported track, and we SLAY trees and we havent lost anything with anyones sled.
R
Redax
New member
Porting outside bands
I am looking at buying a track that has 2 holes in the center band and a hole on each outer band. All of the holes look to be around an inch.
Bad idea???? I see trackscanada is saying any holes on outer bands is bad news. Does anybody else have some input
Cheers,
I am looking at buying a track that has 2 holes in the center band and a hole on each outer band. All of the holes look to be around an inch.
Bad idea???? I see trackscanada is saying any holes on outer bands is bad news. Does anybody else have some input
Cheers,
It's your money...
I have a 156" x 2.5" Extreme on my M1000, and it has been ported with two holes 3/4" in the center only - spaced 2" apart. If you are running big power (turbos, nitrous) - I wouldn't do it. I imagine there is a reason that Camoplast doesn't build thier own tracks with porting for a reason - durability. The longer the track, the more it will tend to "balloon" under load - adding too many or too big of "ports" may leave you in the alpine one day...
I have a 156" x 2.5" Extreme on my M1000, and it has been ported with two holes 3/4" in the center only - spaced 2" apart. If you are running big power (turbos, nitrous) - I wouldn't do it. I imagine there is a reason that Camoplast doesn't build thier own tracks with porting for a reason - durability. The longer the track, the more it will tend to "balloon" under load - adding too many or too big of "ports" may leave you in the alpine one day...
I did 2 1" holes on each row in the center on my 162" mavric track. 900 miles on it now in 2 winters it stretched a little at frist but the track was new hav'ent had to adjust it in a long time. I used a hydralic punch.
F
frock
Well-known member
As I said in my above post, I had a 162" attack 20 on my mod king cat that I ported with outside holes and it ran for 2 seasons like that. Don't know the mileage cuz it never had a speedo. It stretched alot, but I ran extroverts and never had a problem. I'm with oneoldfart though, if you are looking to run this on a sled with huge power I wouldn't do it.
M
mtn mike on boost
Well-known member
JUST SAY NO!!!!!!!
makes the track stretch too much.sucks on water. the actual weight loss is minimal. more prone to have a stick or branch go thru it.( and in wa. snow,
same sleds, same day, side by side, cant see any less snow build up in the skid.)
makes the track stretch too much.sucks on water. the actual weight loss is minimal. more prone to have a stick or branch go thru it.( and in wa. snow,
same sleds, same day, side by side, cant see any less snow build up in the skid.)
I run a M7 Turbo, pushing 10-12 lbs boost. Run a 162" Camoplast Extreme with 3 - 1" holes evenly spaced in the center section. No problems at all, did stretch a little just at first, didn't need to readjust the tension, I like my track a little loose anyways. But I do have extrovert drivers, and I have never had it ratchet. We also run a RX-1 Turbo, did the same thing to the track. The suspension parts broke and rubbed on the inside of the track for a while before we noticed it, looks the same now as when we found the suspension broke. It didn't save a lot of weight (2lbs), but you can see that it does clear out the snow better between your rails on good powder days.
