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You have gotta be kidding me ... what's wrong with this picture?

Dogmeat

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
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You have gotta be kidding me ... what's wrong with this picture? Need advice ASAP :)

I just went to replace "my broken thermostat that was stuck open"

Immediatley after taking the bolts for the thermostat housing off I noticed:

DSC00242.jpg

DSC00241.jpg


I am NEVER paying somone to work on this sled again.

I'm at loss for words here.

How do you "forget" to put the f*cking thermostat back in?
 
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I have a Suburban and I drive it ****ed up because everytime I take it in for repair they break something else.


I am so sorry you deal with this.

I would go back and for your money back ... plus a discount on sled parts/accessories.
 
Well, ok I found the reason they apparently didn't put it back in:

That bolt shown in the second picture ...

What is that bolt for? I can't seem to find anything in the service manual about cylinder head dissassembly that has any reference to it.

I'm trying to put the thermostat in, and the thermostat does not fit flush with the housing, and the back side of the thermostat hits that bolt ..

IE, I can't phsically put the thermostat (P/N 7052376) in ...

What is going on here? heh :)

Is that bolt a just a stop or is it doing something more important?
 
Ok, there is nothing in the service manual about what that bull plug is or does.

I pulled it out, and that's all it is, is a bull plug.

It's threaded into the cylinder head for some reason that I don't know, however ..

Apparently for some reason sombody removed it at some point and then apparently cross-threaded the f*cking threads in the cylinder head.

I get the bolt started, then count my turns, and I get about a turn and a half before it gets too hard to turn.

Looking at the threads in the head and on that bolt I should be getting at least 6 full turns before it tightens up, so apparently the threads int he head are cross-threaded, and that's why the *** **** didn't bother putting the thermostat back in ...

I don't know what I should do, go buy a tap and try to chase the threads with that, or just do the "tighten slowly, back it up" method with the bull plug and some anti-sieze ..

What is this plug for, does anyone know?
 
Usually you get about a turn or two out of thread that is the right diameter but the wrong pitch. Could that be the problem, ie, wrong bolt? It must serve some function in there.
 
Ok ... it turns out that bull plug is something specific to the RMX package ...

I just called RMX and have an appointment to bring the sled in May 1st ...

They said they would try to have it ready for me that afternoon if possible.

Looks like I may be late to the spring fling at rabbit ears :(
 
Brass plug is probably pipe thread. Tapers from the bottom up becoming more of a interference fit as you go.
Not sure why it's there. Maybe just to plug a casting hole?
 
Brass plug is probably pipe thread. Tapers from the bottom up becoming more of a interference fit as you go.
Not sure why it's there. Maybe just to plug a casting hole?

That's what RMX said ..

I realize this was a phenomenally stupid idea, but I just took a cheater pipe and tightened the plug up enough to get the thermostat in ...

RMX told me I was gonna need a new cylinder head from them anyways so I was like "What the hell, it's gonna get replaced anyways" ...

I don't know, the sled hit 160 degrees idling so I popped the hood and turned it off.

I think I'm just gonna wait and have them look at it.

I should have taken this sled back to them in the first place before I started this project this year, one 7 hour drive would have been a lot better than 5-6 3 hour drives :(
 
DM.... That plug is not a factory part which is why you cant find it in the manual.

It is a hex head, brass pipe plug (tapered NSP threads)


That plug caps off the bypass line to the rear of the head... It was added after the fact as some kind of a Thermostat delete idea (a bad one IMO)

If you run a thermostat in that head with the plug in it... you will be blowing hoses and taxing the he!! out of the water pump when the thermo stat is closed....

That hole that the plug is in goes straight back to the rear of the head where the approx 3/8" I.D. hose goes down to the back of the pump.... that is the water pump bypass.... This hole does not lead into the jacket of the cylinder head cooling [other than where it comes out into the thermo cavity where that plug is] , it is simply a path to the rear of the head.

I think that RMX put this in to combat cooling problems on the early radiator deletes that retained the "T" in the coolant lines to the radiator and they just ran a dead loop.... OR still had the front radiator left in the sled... they run cooler without if you plumb it like I have shown in the diagram below.

I have a 2006 cylinder head in my hands right now (well I put it down to type)

The factory designed cooling system on the 900's, If you delete the radiator and the "T", this system will cool even the Baddest 975's and 1140's out there while still running the thermostat for optimum engine temps.

Is there a hose on the back of the engine from the water pump to the head???

If there is, I suggest removing the plug out of the thermo housing and putting in the stock thermostat... no worries with cooling.

Hope this helps.

backsideof900engine.jpg


900rmkcoolingsysassy-1.jpg
 
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So much info.

mountainhorse; just curious where you have obtained such informative knowledge? I find myself reading things I don't even give a rat's *** about just because of your insightfulness and graphics. I think it's awesome you take the time to help so many people. My hats off to you.:beer;:face-icon-small-win
 
mountainhorse; just curious where you have obtained such informative knowledge? I find myself reading things I don't even give a rat's *** about just because of your insightfulness and graphics. I think it's awesome you take the time to help so many people. My hats off to you.:beer;:face-icon-small-win

x2. thanks for helping.
 
MH ... that hose out of the rear of the cylinder head is still connected to the water pump.

I pulled the plug.

I'll go ahead and fire her up and bleed the cooling system ..

Thanks a million, I appreciate it :)
 
He must take a lap top in the crapper with him. Thats the only way, I would have time to put threads like that togehter.....
 
I agree. Mountainhorse is a god.

I copy this stuff to a file on my computer I know or at least have wayyy more info on my 900 than any dealer i've been into ! By 10x

Thanks MH I dont know how you do it but I like it !
 
mountainhorse

I print everything that MH writes. I do this for future reference. this guy should be awared a gold star Polaris dealership(if he wanted it) or at least be recognized by Polaris themselves as unsurpassed product support. Thanks from me Mountain!

Kurt
 
900 Rmx

Hi Guys,

That plug is there to prevent any water from flowing through the bypass. We remove the thermostat because there's about 2.5 hp in that engine if it runs at 100° versus 130°. The fact is that cool engines move more air and generally make more power. Once in a while (like on an 800 Dragon), the temperature is less sensitive but on the 900, every pass on the dyno at high water temps cost the sled horsepower. The thermostat is only there to prevent cold seizures and it did help some with the carbed twins with mid-range throttle response. If you raise the compression, however, those issues are solved. I have absolutey run the dog **** out of all sorts of engines on the dyno, at the drag strip, and on the snow at 80° and never had an issue so why give away free horsepower?

Thanks,
Donavon
Xtreme Performance Center, Inc.
 
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