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yz300 woods / snowbike build

found a solution for lights and heated grips, not enough watts to run both at the same time, but you could have both wired in and use what you need more when u need it!

http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/light...oils/yamaha-yz-250-99-09-lighting-stator.html

no reason not to run a smoker 100% now, sell the heavy turd and buy another smoker!! braaaaAAAAAAPPPPPP:becky:
^
(thats the powerband kickin in) :face-icon-small-win

looks like I just missed out on this one, 150 watts!
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/95...n-an-external-lighting-coils-for-their-yz250/
 
rebel,
I still got the cat but I am coming out again this year with J&L Snowhawk now that main ride is a wr450. as soon as we get done with harvest he and I are going to get it built. Can't wait. You guys converted me and I can't wait to have a bike for the whole trip.
 
HAAA HAAAA

TOO BAD YOUR STILL GOING TO BE STUCK AND LEFT BEHIND BECAUSE YOU BOUGHT A DARN WR INSTEAD OF A MX BIKE. SEE YA IN MY SNOWDUST!!!!!
CANT WAIT!!
 
does anybody have an opinion on cast vs forged piston on these 2 strokes? This big bore piston is a forged unit. Years back with the polaris triples and other sled engines I was warned to steer clear of forged (wiseco, etc). I was advised that in a snow application forged was dangerous because of the rapid cool off of the engine when stopped for lunch, stuck, etc. I will obviously be aware and do good full warm ups, but its hard when you take a short break and the engine cools all the way off. 2 strokes take forever to warm up fully at an idle or high idle so its easy to jump the gun and braaap of right into a cold seize. The bypass thermo will help blend the warm coolant with the cold and speed warm up. I never had any prolems with the yz250 on snow a couple years ago with its stock cast piston. Is a forged piston more dangerous than a cast under rapid heating and cooling scenarios?
I know for my CR500 once it was heavily ported I was instructed to only use forged.... but the warm up needs to be religous... I would have a temp gauge to be safe....
 
rebel,
I still got the cat but I am coming out again this year with J&L Snowhawk now that main ride is a wr450. as soon as we get done with harvest he and I are going to get it built. Can't wait. You guys converted me and I can't wait to have a bike for the whole trip.

sweet Darren, Im glad u got hooked, it should be fun!

TOO BAD YOUR STILL GOING TO BE STUCK AND LEFT BEHIND BECAUSE YOU BOUGHT A DARN WR INSTEAD OF A MX BIKE. SEE YA IN MY SNOWDUST!!!!!
CANT WAIT!!

Wr's are great bikes!

I know for my CR500 once it was heavily ported I was instructed to only use forged.... but the warm up needs to be religous... I would have a temp gauge to be safe....

I always run temp gauges to see how cold my bike is running, thanks for the reassurance on the forged.
 
les, you are a dick. remember, I'm too fat to lay on my roof to get my keys so Im to fat to run the kick starter thats why i needed the wr for the elec start.
 
got a quick road ride in saturday, put on about 20 miles.
immediately noticed gearing was terrible, 35 mph in 5th max.
carb heater and thermo worked good, not sure if I will need to restrict the bypass flow or not, thoughts?
smart carb choke is worthless, ordered a primer today.
vibration is bad, my fuel spray bottle rattled apart in my tunnel bag, good thing I had it though because it was zero degrees out and like I said smarty choke does nothing.
bike ran good maybe a touch lazy on the bottom, but topend seemed great! too cold out to swap carbs,maybe next time.
destroyed a dual runner center ski runner, good thing I got a triple pointer from snowbikekits.com to put on once we get more snow.
rekluse is nice on snow I see no drawbacks, nice but not necessary. I put in the blue exp springs, will be changing to gold for highest engagement.

I reversed the chaincase gears for more speed for the next ride, and took out the short keys and put the long ones back with red loctite on the bolts, will go from there to dial climbing gear, might have to use the secret weapon 16 tooth somewhere in the system. We got a good bit of snow, but 20 below zero made it sugar, the ski would just cut right to the bottom! All in all worth it to find out about the gearing and get out and about!

ride2.jpg
 
Does timbersled have you running a 12T countershaft sprocket? On the ktm 300 that is what they recommend. I ran 13/19 and it was still too low. This year I will be gearing up! Tall gearing will be better IMHO. Less shifting and more load on motor.
 
Curious to know what Smarty settings u run ? Rod ? Clicks ? Does it vibrate more now than it did before ?

Are you using choke when its warmed up ?
 
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Does timbersled have you running a 12T countershaft sprocket? On the ktm 300 that is what they recommend. I ran 13/19 and it was still too low. This year I will be gearing up! Tall gearing will be better IMHO. Less shifting and more load on motor.

13 countershaft

Curious to know what Smarty settings u run ? Rod ? Clicks ? Does it vibrate more now than it did before ?

I'm running the smarty stock. I gave it 3 clicks to the rich side for starters. ran great in the summer but would not cold start even in summer without a squirt. Ideas? Vibration is the same as always, just something I don't like about the smokers especially seems worse in the cold.
 
Are you using choke when its warmed up ?

no not using choke when warmed up, starts fine if warm. only dead cold start is a problem (at the house, at the trailhead, at the house at the end). not a big deal, adding a primer is easy.
 
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I've been busy getting my 300 race motor done and tuned, found out a few smart carb things that may help. First is get the 78 rod or Q09 whatever you want to call it. It gets ride of the mid throttle lean spot, starts better and just smoothes out the power very nice. I'm at 42 clicks out from full rich with my 300, these motors take a lot of fuel...
 
I've been busy getting my 300 race motor done and tuned, found out a few smart carb things that may help. First is get the 78 rod or Q09 whatever you want to call it. It gets ride of the mid throttle lean spot, starts better and just smoothes out the power very nice. I'm at 42 clicks out from full rich with my 300, these motors take a lot of fuel...

Thank you Cameron, I will check into it! btw Every time I look at this all white kit I just smile! Thanks again! 42 clicks out is a far cry from "stock / shipped" config, I will keep plugging away at the tuning, I appreciate the advice!
 
Yeah the white is killer! I wish I could have got that again this year... The metering rods take roughly 10-15 hrs of ride time to start to break in, the 60ish clicks out stock is waaaaay lean, especially on a mod motor before the metering rod is broke in. When you switch rods you need to break it in as well. Im amazed with my smart carb, but they do take some tuning, its not just a set and go carb. I tuned mine at 3000' ft and ran it up to 12,000ft and it was still running perfect! Stick with it, its a great carb when you get it dialed. Listen for lean spots while youre riding and regularly check your plug and see what its doing. Once youre getting a nice light brown color its close, if its light brown with a little white wash youre about 5 clicks lean. If you run the stock rod you won't get the mid lean bog out of it, I tried.
 
goog day but ran like crap!

tried it today, I'm gonna have to enclose the engine like I have done in the past. I was too busy earlier in the week to get it shrouded. It was like zero degrees out today and a foot of fresh powder, ran terribly once I hit the pow! The snow coming off the ski right onto the pipe was a deal breaker. I played with the smart carb and it ran best right where I had it 3 clicks rich from where I received it from APT. I tried as much as 20 clicks rich and 10 clicks lean and everything in between. I don't know about you guys in the pac norwest, but the cold smoke dry super cold powder we have here is impossible! Anybody who says carb icing isnt a big deal needs to come to Bozeman! The entire engine was not even visible! The avid thermo heater setup works good, I just did not have time to do a jacket and pipe cover, so my fault for tempting fate! I tried the good old pine branch method of enclosing the engine and that helped a little. Even with that and the heat collar the carb was still freezing open, scary! All in all a good day of testing but I will have to enclose at least the pipe and probly it all. Here are a couple vids from today, and one from 3 years ago with my old yz250 completely enclosed, that worked and I did not even heat the carb. The first vid is painful to listen to the engine, 1st gear is good, but I cant pull second, again, super cold pipe I think! Any input is appreciated. In the second vid I crash at the end.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_czWYFxALok&list=UUOhRFJBGltae7om4vM3rCqg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOg3CgEG-ss&list=UUOhRFJBGltae7om4vM3rCqg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HSsgKBqnnY&list=UUOhRFJBGltae7om4vM3rCqg

GOPR0008.jpg GOPR0009.jpg GOPR0010.jpg
 
a good day!

got another test in today.

regeared to 17 over 16 in the chain case (previously 20 over 17 was too tall). Installed koso rapid response egt gauge, powering it with a battery in my number plate bag. What a lifesaver! When the display turns red it really gets ur attention! all my problems were a lean bog, duhhh mb ***! I was hitting the 1250 mark like nothing! richened her up with the clicker and was able to maintain below 1250 for the most part but on a sustained pull, more than 3-5 sec, hit it easily. I will be trying the 78 rod as suggested thank you mxracer299! When I ordered the smarty I asked for a few rods and the guy said I would not need anything but the 80, I guess on snowbikes you really pull harder than you ever would on dirt, unless you have a death wish! I found a hole in my prefilter after last ride, assuming that was why the sticking carb slide! I was able to get off and boondock a touch today, once I got her rich enough to run good I was really impressed! what a fun ride! Here's a vid from today, can't wait for more snow:

http://youtu.be/HdEvcOxn2aM

and another:
http://youtu.be/dANqwtSsMrY
 
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Much better. After watching your first vid I was going to suggest you were detonating. You hear it if go back and watch the vids again. Sounds like marbles in a tin can. Kills power and sounds like hell. If you haven't already, pull your pipe and check your piston crown right at the exhaust port. You will see some pitting I bet. Make sure it's nothing terrible that could cause a big failure. Sounding better! I bet that 78 rod really helps!
 
Much better. After watching your first vid I was going to suggest you were detonating. You hear it if go back and watch the vids again. Sounds like marbles in a tin can. Kills power and sounds like hell. If you haven't already, pull your pipe and check your piston crown right at the exhaust port. You will see some pitting I bet. Make sure it's nothing terrible that could cause a big failure. Sounding better! I bet that 78 rod really helps!

just looked inside with plug out and pipe off, no pitting or melting at all. thanks for the suggestion, its been a while for me on the 2stroke thing! will order the 78 rod tomorrow.
 
I would love to look at this bike I got a 15 yz250 I am thinking about converting.
I live in Great Falls but I come to bozeman. Is it still a 300 or back to a 250?
 
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