B
yes red is overkill, blue will work just fine.
Should have done the Grade 8 motor mount bolt upgrade....
- Thread starter Dogmeat
- Start date
yes red is overkill, blue will work just fine.
I would think blue loc-tite would work fine.
The bolts didn't work themselves loose ... they just sheared off completley
The bolts didn't work themselves loose ... they just sheared off completley
C
those bolts become more of an issue the more times they are worked on. I recommend they be replaced with a good brand name bolt when the engine is removed the first time. These breakage issues show up quite often with OEM Polaris bolts....EG: Team adjustment bolts, IQ front engine mounts, 900 cross-member ends.....you get the pic..
Does anyone have the size spec of these bolts handy? I don't have access to the polaris dealer site anymore to egt this info.
Does anyone have the size spec of these bolts handy? I don't have access to the polaris dealer site anymore to egt this info.
Dogmeat!!!!
DUDE!!!!!! Look at your primary clutch !!!!!!
You are burning the living sh!t out of the belt.
you need a stronger secondary spring, and your helix starting angle is to high.
a Mountain 900 needs a flatter starting angle and more spring.
try a 60/42 - .46 and a 160 X 300 spring with a delrin washer.
The 66/44 - .42 your running will work in a flatlander sled with the a weak spring but NOT in a mountain sled with a track that long.
Your front motor mount problem is a result of clutch troubles more then anything.
Dan
DUDE!!!!!! Look at your primary clutch !!!!!!
You are burning the living sh!t out of the belt.
you need a stronger secondary spring, and your helix starting angle is to high.
a Mountain 900 needs a flatter starting angle and more spring.
try a 60/42 - .46 and a 160 X 300 spring with a delrin washer.
The 66/44 - .42 your running will work in a flatlander sled with the a weak spring but NOT in a mountain sled with a track that long.
Your front motor mount problem is a result of clutch troubles more then anything.
Dan
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Dan, the clutching is fine right now, and was all last season. What happened is when I got the sled back from the first dealer I had work on it, we re-used the stock Polaris primary spring .... If I remember right, it was a red/black spring.
With the 66/44-42 helix and the stock secondary spring, the clutch was not shifting out all the way. The stock polaris red/black spring had much too high of spring rate. ...
I had all the rates and whatnot written down, I dont remember them off the top of my head, but the bottom line was that when I compared what the stock yellow/green spring on a 2003 900 Mountain Cat was, it was like 60 lb/in less or something along those lines.
As soon as I put the yellow/green spring in, everything was fine.
I can ride deep pow on it for hours on end, pop the hood, and hold my hand on the belt ..... The belt is not getting very hot at all now.
I should have removed the clutch and cleaned it after the Polaris primary spring mishap the season before last, heh ....
This is very intersting Dan...I could've swore the general consensus was the 66/42-66/44 helix with the red/black or red/pink team sec spring was the rec'd mountain helix to use with the 19/42 18/40 ratio's on the longer tracked sleds 151"-166". I know Carls likes to use a 64/40 but with higher gearing (stock) I guess just a little different theory is all.
Is this rec due to DM running the CAT clutch??
I run the 66/42 with the red/black on a 166 @ 3,000-7,000 feet that seems to work well. I'm also wondering if there might be a possible alignment issue with DM's sled eg: broken bolt, possible mount issues??
I also agree with Compfusion about repeated bolt removal with substandard bolts only speeds up the inevitable.
I think the clutching on my 900 is pretty good. There is a little bit to be had perhaps, I am still running the stock red/black spring in the secondary clutch.
I will be replacing that with the red/pink for this year and trying that out.
With the SLP kit, and a completley stock 2003 900 King Cat clutch setup (yellow/green spring, 69g weights), I'm holding 7,800 RPM consistently with the SLP performance package on the sled, which is what SLP says that kit is built for.
It runs pretty damn well from 8,000-10,000 feet ..... that is, when it runs
I will be replacing that with the red/pink for this year and trying that out.
With the SLP kit, and a completley stock 2003 900 King Cat clutch setup (yellow/green spring, 69g weights), I'm holding 7,800 RPM consistently with the SLP performance package on the sled, which is what SLP says that kit is built for.
It runs pretty damn well from 8,000-10,000 feet ..... that is, when it runs
Just to clarify you guys are replacing: the 4 crossmember bolts, the bolts that hold the rear mounts in (smaller ones), the bolts that hold the mounts in place (bolts to engine) and bolts that hold the front mounts to the crossmember (torx bits), correct? I just want to make sure that Im not missing anything....thanks Jack
Jack..
you got them, but a few too many..UNLESS you wanna replace them all then go for it..only better..
-4 crossmember bolts
-2 front motor mount bolts (mount to engine)
-2 rear motor mount bolts (mount to engine)
if you have other bolts that you have removed several times then i would replave them as well..the more you install a bolt, torque it, remove it and repeat..the bolt will stretch and weaken..
but like i said, if you want to replace the torx bolts, mount bolts...go for it..otherwise..AT LEAST do the ones i stated..
AND replace your Primary bolt yearly too...mine were loose and i torqued it 2x (98ft lbs)last year and it still worked its way loose...FYI
you got them, but a few too many..UNLESS you wanna replace them all then go for it..only better..
-4 crossmember bolts
-2 front motor mount bolts (mount to engine)
-2 rear motor mount bolts (mount to engine)
if you have other bolts that you have removed several times then i would replave them as well..the more you install a bolt, torque it, remove it and repeat..the bolt will stretch and weaken..
but like i said, if you want to replace the torx bolts, mount bolts...go for it..otherwise..AT LEAST do the ones i stated..
AND replace your Primary bolt yearly too...mine were loose and i torqued it 2x (98ft lbs)last year and it still worked its way loose...FYI
Ok, managed to get the motor out of the sled ...
Do I need to replace the 4 torx bolts on each puck as well?
Also, the two motor mount crossmember bolts on the mag side are of different lengths ... is this correct?
What size bolts do I need to be putting back in?
Do I need to replace the 4 torx bolts on each puck as well?
Also, the two motor mount crossmember bolts on the mag side are of different lengths ... is this correct?
What size bolts do I need to be putting back in?
if you have the motor out..i would replace the bolts that hold the rear motor mounts to the chassis...i was putting in new ones and 3 of the 4 broke off..i used grade 8 bolts with nuts on the back of them on the PTO side, and a grade 8 on the lower MAG side mount with a nut on the back, and a grade 8 bolt in the upper MAG side mount housing...
on the torx head bolts..i am sure your referring to the ones that hold the engine side plates on? (i.e the one that holds the torqe stop). you can if you want to, i would for sure if they look worn out..they are not very strong bolts at all really..i most likely will anyways..
on the torx head bolts..i am sure your referring to the ones that hold the engine side plates on? (i.e the one that holds the torqe stop). you can if you want to, i would for sure if they look worn out..they are not very strong bolts at all really..i most likely will anyways..
ksh
Does anyone have ARP P/N's for whatever type of bolts you should use?
I'd like to just put Grade 9's in all the way around if I can.
I'd like to just put Grade 9's in all the way around if I can.
P
also what are the torque specs for all the bolts
D
About 35ft/lbs...your using locktite so you don't to completely reef on em' for fear of working their way out.
There was a post that had a chart and showed the specs somewhere.
I'll try to find it for you.
There was a post that had a chart and showed the specs somewhere.
I'll try to find it for you.
I guess this is another +1 for Compfusion's mounts ...
The mouts held, so whenever the crossmember cracked and the bolts sheared off, that mount and the SLP torque arm were the only things actually holding the motor in the sled. I didn't even notice the original crossmember had a crack until I went to take the mounts off so I could use the old one as a template to drill the new crossmember the bolts sheared off in ... came right apart in my hands ....
The mouts held, so whenever the crossmember cracked and the bolts sheared off, that mount and the SLP torque arm were the only things actually holding the motor in the sled. I didn't even notice the original crossmember had a crack until I went to take the mounts off so I could use the old one as a template to drill the new crossmember the bolts sheared off in ... came right apart in my hands ....
HOLY $%@$& DOGMEAT..
how do you find out originally that your crossmember bolts were busted..
BEFORE you had the compfusion mounts and Indydan TMIII crank..did you have any crank issues..
would you suspect that your bulkhead is twisted..thats pretty damn insane..
how do you find out originally that your crossmember bolts were busted..
BEFORE you had the compfusion mounts and Indydan TMIII crank..did you have any crank issues..
would you suspect that your bulkhead is twisted..thats pretty damn insane..
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