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1100 Turbo LTD...350 miles...first belt blown

Phizzer

Well-known member
Premium Member
Oct 23, 2008
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Ketchikan, AK
Well it finally happened to me....blew my first belt on my 1100 turbo....and it just so happened to be one of the best days of riding we've had this year. Made a big long pull with it, turned out at the top and came back down to the bottom, went up for another sidehill and WHAM! There she went. Made quite the mess, took a little while to get all of the cords out, and since I didnt have a spare belt, I had to borrow one off a M800....seemed to have worked. I came straight down the mountain, no playing around. Im not sure if the belt go too hot or what. Both my primary and secondary were so hot while I was trying to get the cords out it made me slightly concerned. Its the first belt problem I've had so far, and im leaning more towards heat being the problem at this point. Will a vent kit solve my problem? I haven't heard to many horror stories about the turbo blowing belts, they are made of a different material is what Im told. Anyways just letting everyone know, im thinking that a vent kit will probably help me out here...I hope :)
 
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nosajlleb

Well-known member
Feb 19, 2010
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Michigan
there is a nut in the chaincase that can loosen up so I am told and can create quite a belt blowin mess. Need a special socket to tighten it up a few flatlanders have been blowing belts with this being the problem they said your secondary should have some slop in it if this is happening. FWIW. Am talking the 4s too.
 
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izzni

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Mar 22, 2009
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Vadnais Heights
The nut coming loose in the chaincase seems to be mainly a 800 thing, although I could be wrong.

You probably have an alignment problem, since venting might reduce it by maybe 20 degrees, if its way way way too hot, 20 degrees isn't going to do anything.
 
T
Jan 1, 2008
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There is no nut to come loose on the 1100t. I have had no belt problems on my 1100t but I have machined my clutches and run a torsional spring in the driven. I put another 96 miles on my sled today with alot of hill climbing and my belt stays cool. The clutches are warm but not hot at all. The fan works remarkably well. I think that is why the belt is cool and the clutches are warm but not hot.
 

markoo

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Nov 26, 2007
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Southern Alberta
belt heat

We have 2 m1100t. Both grenaded belts just over 500 miles. Both sleds have lots of vents. The clutching on the m1100 works pretty good but creates too much heat. Here in Canada we have to pay $218 for a new belt so at 500 miles that is close to $.50 per mile. That's more than fuel.
 
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nosajlleb

Well-known member
Feb 19, 2010
708
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43
Michigan
There is no nut to come loose on the 1100t. I have had no belt problems on my 1100t but I have machined my clutches and run a torsional spring in the driven. I put another 96 miles on my sled today with alot of hill climbing and my belt stays cool. The clutches are warm but not hot at all. The fan works remarkably well. I think that is why the belt is cool and the clutches are warm but not hot.

The flatlanders that were having problems said there was a retainer in there but I never seen when looking at the fiche diagrams. Anyway thanks for the info. The stock clutching definitely creates a lot more heat, just put in the mds weights and polaris spring and the sheaves are much cooler.
 

KSH

Steering Wheel Holder
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Mar 22, 2005
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There is no nut to come loose on the 1100t. I have had no belt problems on my 1100t but I have machined my clutches and run a torsional spring in the driven. I put another 96 miles on my sled today with alot of hill climbing and my belt stays cool. The clutches are warm but not hot at all. The fan works remarkably well. I think that is why the belt is cool and the clutches are warm but not hot.

I believe this is the Retaining Ring Nut they are referring
scan0001.jpg
 
F
Nov 30, 2007
127
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28
Twin Cities, MN
Turbo and the NA sleds can have the nut come loose. Most do not see as many problems compared to the 800 sleds because of the design in the TCL. The plate on the 4s sleds is much stiffer with the bent design and shorter distance between mount points. It can hold the jackshaft better than the TCL on the 800 sleds.

Get your reverse updates and the jackshaft will be shimmed at the same time. Until then, ride and be happy that the 4s has a better TCL.
 

Phizzer

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Oct 23, 2008
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Ketchikan, AK
Thanks for all the replies. Jack shaft is not loose, I'm going to check my alignment in the morning. I havent checked it since the first oil change. I did notice that one of the bolts that hold the helix in place was broke so that will also have to be addressed. Will the MDS weights make that much of a temp difference? What will be my benefits as opposed to stock? I've been seriously thinking of the electric fan kit I've seen. It seems to me like a good idea if you can get one to fit. I am also running a straight pipe, which shouldn't make the engine compartment any warmer then stock right? If anything I would think it would run cooler since its getting rid of those gases quicker.
 
M
Jan 13, 2010
28
5
3
wasilla, alaska
m1100t ltd blown belt

I blew my first belt around 300 miles. I took it to the dealer and apparently the dealer I bought it from had never aligned the clutches. At least that is what I was told. my clutches were extremely hot. I don't know if its related but my engine never revved over 7200 rpm that day. The dealer is supposed to fix these issues but I would like to know if anyone has any opinions.
 
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Going West

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Nov 30, 2007
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2 belts on our 1100t. Both had about 250 trail miles, then headed out west and neither belt made it past the 6 day trip. Both blew while tree riding, i think the constant on and off is what is killing them. My bet is if you dont ride the trees you get much better belt life.
 

Phizzer

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Premium Member
Oct 23, 2008
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Ketchikan, AK
****. I blew another belt....Put a BRAND NEW 189.99 belt on my sled on Wednesday. Went for night ride to break the belt in, put a easy 25 miles on. Today I go out, another 5 miles of easy riding. I then ride for a few hours, in the mountains...406 miles, belt blows again. Wasn't making a hard pull at the time, just cruising through clear cut. I've made sure to keep all my vents clear, constantly dusting the snow away. When I swapped out belts, I hawked a luigi on the secondary and the god damn thing boiled....Now here's the weird part, when I put the new belt on, my belt deflection was slightly tight...I adjusted it with the proper shims, didnt take much, and I was on my way. Today when my belt let loose, I found the head of a bolt that holds the helix onto the secondary laying in my running board, there are four that hold the helix. I read yesterday on here that if the jackshaft nut has become loose then the deflection can change? The secondary itself has NO slop in it, before I put the new belt on I checked the offset, it was good just like before, but my deflection had changed. It didnt change much and since it was a new belt I assumed that once it was broke in, it might loosen up a bit. At this point, im leaning towards the direction of a loose jackshaft nut, and possibly under a load its allowing the secondary to move just enough to get it to warm up. I dont know....Slightly disappointing. I didnt want to have to open up the chaincase until the I had the parts for the reverse update but I might have to. Anyways let me know what you guys think, I havent heard many problems with the 1100's.
 
G
Jan 24, 2012
42
9
8
Sounds like the same problem I had. Couldn't feel any play in the secondary. But under load the secondary would walk around. Nut was only finger tight.
 
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