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Removing helix

tundramonkey

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Nov 26, 2007
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MN
You will need some sort of clutch compression tool to due this. If you don't have one you can make one with some threaded rod that's at least a foot long and some big washers.

Before you start to compress the clutch you will need to put alignment mark on the sheaves so it goes back together the same as it came apart.

Run the threaded rod through the center of the clutch and put a washer (or plate) on each end. Now thread a nut on the top and bottom of the rod. Hold the clutch so the helix side is down and start to tighten the nut on the back of the clutch. You only need to tighten it a little to take it apart. (one or two turns, if that)

Take out the 6 or 9 bolts on the back side of the clutch. Once all the bolts are out you can start to loosen that nut on the back side of the clutch and change out the helix.

Make sure you use two nuts on the helix side of the rod so they lock together and the threaded rod won't spin off that nut. And make sure you have all the extra length of the rod out the back of the clutch to ensure you have enough to get it apart safely.

Putting it together is just the opposite. Just pay attention to the sheave position as you are turning the nut. They will rotate with the angle of the helix. Take a look at the marks you made as well, this will help you when you have to put it back together.
 

jtt454

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Nov 26, 2007
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Noth Dakota
you should apply some heat to the bolts on the back of the clutch so the loctite loosens up, but be careful and don't melt your seconday rollers.
 

RickM

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May 25, 2006
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aktreekiller

The post above will help you out a lot, i just had a couple of helpful hints also.

i use flat stock 2x6 inch strap. with hole in middle of flat stock for a 1/2 inch redi bolt to go thru, ( same method as above with big washers.)
after you mark your shives, you can compress your clutch by tightening the redi bolt to the point where you can see the helix side wall where the screws have screwed in. That area is where you want to apply some heat using a small propane torch, it doesnt take long to heat up the three areas where the screws go in. then take a hammer driver with the torx head and loosen the screws. with out heat you can twist off screws.
once you get it apart its simple to just put it back together,
if you put in the shift assist bearing be sure and remove one of the nylon spacers under the spring, its the same thickness as shift assist, that way your spring compression is still the same. hope i didnt over load you here.
Rickm
 
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