King Cat track tension
- Thread starter KingD
- Start date
F
There are 2 bolts back by the rear wheels of your skid frame one on each side. What you have to do is loosen the jam nut on that bolts so that you can adjust the track. Once you have that loose adjust your track to about 2 1/2 of gap at 10lbs of weight in the center of the track as a starting point. Some guys like to run them looser some tighter depends on the rider. Once you have the track adjusted where you want it you must make sure it is aligned also. To do this measure the distance between the slider and the track clip. Make sure the distance is the same from one side to the other. If one side is farther away than the other tighten the side that is farthest away. You will need to have the back of the sled up on a jackstand so you can run the sled and spin the track. After adjusting the side that is farthest away from the slider spin the track and let it coast to a stop. Shut the engine off and check the distance again. Once you get it adjusted and aligned tighten the jam nuts and you should be good to go.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with
Jeff
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with
Jeff
I like to run mine as loose as I can without it ratcheting.
A
Jeff is right on here. But man it is a PITA to move the jacking bolts if you don't loosen the axle bolt first. 9/16" bolt through the wheel centers. And don't forget to tighten it back up after you make your adjustments.
Thunder
Check then tension and rail end caps on the front of the skid. Mine were toast and it did hum/vibrate.
Rail end caps
Here is what the rail end caps should look like. If they are worn you'll be able to tell. Replacement is easy. Are you running drop brackets? If you are you'll want to put on a set of anti-stab wheels and take a little off of the rails while your at it. On the tension, follow Funoutfitters advice.
Here is what the rail end caps should look like. If they are worn you'll be able to tell. Replacement is easy. Are you running drop brackets? If you are you'll want to put on a set of anti-stab wheels and take a little off of the rails while your at it. On the tension, follow Funoutfitters advice.
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H
I think tight track tension causes the hum.
Don't you guys? I too run the track as loose as possible just tight enough so it doesn't ratchet.
On another note; I think the angle that the lug meets the snow pack is changed by track tention. The looser the track the better it will climb up onto the snow. The tighter the track, the more it will trench by causing a more vertical the lug will hit the snow.
Am I right?
Owen
Don't you guys? I too run the track as loose as possible just tight enough so it doesn't ratchet.
On another note; I think the angle that the lug meets the snow pack is changed by track tention. The looser the track the better it will climb up onto the snow. The tighter the track, the more it will trench by causing a more vertical the lug will hit the snow.
Am I right?
Owen
J
ur angle of attack to the snow wont get any better than when the track is against ur rails. ie, if u have a 15 degree angle when the track is against the rails, a looser track is goin to make the angle steeper if centrifical force pulls the trak away from the rails. most of the tension in a loose track is taken up in where the track isnt in contact with the snow tho so probably not a big issue. go to a hill and loosen the track til it ratchets, then tighten it up. ride it til it ratchets again and tighten.
M
If you haven't been greasing your jackshaft and driveshaft bearings behind the driven clutch, You better start NOW...
Grease Points
Where are you greasing these points at? Is it just a universal greas fitting or do I need to remove anything? A pic would be super helpful.
Where are you greasing these points at? Is it just a universal greas fitting or do I need to remove anything? A pic would be super helpful.
Sounds like your track might be a little tight if it's humming. Do you notice this on hard pack or in deep snow? These suspensions tighten the track as it collapses.
7
if you put new slides on it and don't bevel cut the rear of the slide to a 30 deg as the track clips pass you will get the hummm or if the slides are toast the inner part of the track will hit the first cross offthe skid after the turn past the drivers and do the same.
Take off our driven (back) clutch and you will see a grease zurk on the top of teh jack shaft bearing. Then witht he clutch off look down to the bottom of the bell pan. You will see where the speedometer cable hooks up. there is a grease zurk there that should be done A LOT ! That bearing is always the first to go. I have replaced 2 in 1100 miles. both were blown apart. Make sure you change you chain case oil every year also. I am running ATF in my chain cases. Lots fo guys do and lots of others run 80-90w gear oil. its just a personal preference thing.
ATF didnt know people ran atf in them, have always went with 80-90, whats the advantage of atf vs 80-90, thought you wanted thicker stuff, could be wrong, i realize when its cold out if gunna be thicker until you get stuff moving in there, have any of you ever went to grease not the jackshaft guess you would call it the driveshaft and broke the zerk off, did that tonite, whats the best fix, or would i have to replace that whole plate, and to get that bearing off do i have to remove the whole shaft?
B
I'm in the process of tightening my track now as well on the king.
Seems like the general concensus is 2" of sag with roughly a 10 pound weight hanging off the track.
Also, I have some 75-90 oil. Will that work okay, or should I get the 80-90?
Seems like the general concensus is 2" of sag with roughly a 10 pound weight hanging off the track.
Also, I have some 75-90 oil. Will that work okay, or should I get the 80-90?
